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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Soldering Stainless steel
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:47 PM   #1121
AllanMar
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I did something similar, but take the post above's advice as he didnt make the mistakes I did.

I used a 1 1/4" conduit punch (~1.75" hole), which meant a bigger dimple. I also used a custom made tool but had it made to exactly 2". With the flex of the larger dimple this left me with a hole a fair bit too small. It took alot of grinding/hammering to get it in place.

If you can... start with a hole that is closer to 2" (but not too close), and use a tool that allows for you to go slightly larger then 2". It will save yourself alot of grief.

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:51 AM   #1122
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Originally Posted by cgherrington3 View Post
Everbody has a different take on this, so I thought I throw out mine.

I'm way to cheap to buy anything, so I built a dimple maker out of 2 sockets and bolt.

Drilled a 1/2" hole with a step bit, pulled the dimple, and ran 3/4 ridged copper pipe through and soldered.

Attach fitting of your choice to pipe.

13mm kobalt 1/2 drive socket makes the dimple

24mm socket, bolt, washers, nut yada yada yada

don't pull it all the way through it will be too loose

This seems like a really good idea - has anyone else tried it? I was just about to pull the trigger on purchasing various concentric reducing couplers, etc... when I saw this. Would appreciate feedback from anyone who has used sockets to flare holes before I give it a try...
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:44 AM   #1123
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I've been lurking and learning on HBT for more than a month now, and have learned great deal on many interesting threads, but this one takes the cake. I've just reached the last post after reading everything through from end to end, and even after more than 1000 posts, there was still more new and useful information.

I'm kind of google-eyed and realize that I am the only one to post on this thread in the new year so far, but I have a couple questions in case anyone out there with expertise is still monitoring this thread:

1/4" WELDING SPUDS: I want to use 1/4" compression fittings for my thermo probes and want no protrusion into the interior cavity (other than the probe). From what others have done, it sounds like a 1/4" half coupler welding spud is what I want to use. Specific questions I am still not clear on:

-is there any reason to dimple the hole for these fittings? From what I read, the 1/2" half couplers can just be laid on a circular bed of solder and allowed to melt down into a bead by heat and gravity - any reason that this would not also be the best way to solder on the 1/4" half-couplers as well?

-one advantage of dimpling the hole is that the spud is held in place. If it is better not to dimple for a 1/4" thermoprobe fitting, what size hole should be cut and how do you assure that the fitting remains centered on the hole while heating?

LEVEL GUAGE: When you solder on a half-coupler for use with a level guage, is anything usually done in advance to position the coupler so that an elbow will screw in to the correct orientation (vertical)? This should be an issue with any welded fitting for use with a level guage - is there always enough slack to get a tight seal oriented vertically (with Teflon tape) or is there something that should be done to predetermine the ideal 12 o'clock position on the spud before welding/soldering?

TRICLOVER FERRULES: It seems that welders generally shy away from trying to weld the short 1/2" (12.7mm) triclover ferrules because it is too tight for them to work. With dimpling and soldering it should be no more difficult to solder on the shorter ferrules - has any one done this? Is there any downside (not enough space for the clamp, etc...)??


My list of questions would have been sooooo much longer only a few short days ago.....

Thanks for everyone who has contributed to this thread in the past anyone still monitoring that can help me with the above questions before I try my first joints.

-fafrd

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Old 01-16-2013, 12:23 PM   #1124
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I think you are confusing your parts/terminology. A welding spud looks like this, there is no need to dimple, nor could you install it if you dimpled.

A half-coupling looks like this. These as well as full-couplings can be dimpled.

Hope that helps!

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Old 01-16-2013, 01:43 PM   #1125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fafrd
TRICLOVER FERRULES: It seems that welders generally shy away from trying to weld the short 1/2" (12.7mm) triclover ferrules because it is too tight for them to work. With dimpling and soldering it should be no more difficult to solder on the shorter ferrules - has any one done this? Is there any downside (not enough space for the clamp, etc...)??
I soldered short ferrules into my kettle. Clearance with the wings on the clamp can be tight depending on orientation, but I don't find it to be an issue. I dimpled outward and pushed the ferrules in by hand though (which was a pain). If you dimpled inward it might put the flange too close to the kettle wall.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:05 PM   #1126
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Quote:
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I soldered short ferrules into my kettle. Clearance with the wings on the clamp can be tight depending on orientation, but I don't find it to be an issue. I dimpled outward and pushed the ferrules in by hand though (which was a pain). If you dimpled inward it might put the flange too close to the kettle wall.
Same for me. You can see pictures of my setup up a few posts, the last pic shows that there's not much clearance there between the clamp and the wall, but the curvature of the vessel helps.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:07 PM   #1127
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I just wanted to thank everyone who posted to this thread. I learned a lot an was able to pull a dimple and solder two couplings yesterday. Great info for someone who has never done work like this before. Cheers.🍻

image-43514916.jpg

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Old 01-16-2013, 05:14 PM   #1128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyzazz View Post
I think you are confusing your parts/terminology. A welding spud looks like this, there is no need to dimple, nor could you install it if you dimpled.

A half-coupling looks like this. These as well as full-couplings can be dimpled.

Hope that helps!
wyazz, yes, my bad - sorry. I'd seen the half-couplings and reading through all the many posts on this thread, guess I interpreted references to 'welding spuds' to be talking about the same thing. I am planning to use 1/4" half couplings - NOT welding spuds.

Thanks for helping me to clarify. And understand that true spuds CANNOT be dimpled and that half-couplings CAN be dimpled. My remaining question is whether there is an advantage (or a drawback) to dimpling a 1/4" half-coupling versus just letting the half-coupling sink down into a bed of solder on the outer surface of the vessel?

And also have an additional question after thinking things over last night: If the half-coupling can be effectively soldered onto the outer surface, is there any reason that the hole cannot be drilled after the half-coupling has been soldered? This would be for a temperature probe.

Great to see that people like you are still monitoring this thread and contributing!

-fafrd
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:28 PM   #1129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluxgame View Post
I soldered short ferrules into my kettle. Clearance with the wings on the clamp can be tight depending on orientation, but I don't find it to be an issue. I dimpled outward and pushed the ferrules in by hand though (which was a pain). If you dimpled inward it might put the flange too close to the kettle wall.
Thanks - my orientation will be out from the middle of the bottom surface of the Mash Tun for a bottom drain, so I suppose this would be the worst case as far as orientation, right? For this situation would you recommend going with one of the 1" length ferrules?

Also, I saw in one thread where they filed down the 'corners' of the end of the tube on the ferrule so that it would be easier to 'pull' back into the kettle after the dimple had been made outwards - is this how you did it? Was it a pain because you had to taper the end of the ferrule or despite that?

I'm also considering putting a separate 1" ferrule out from the side as close to the bottom as possible. This would be for a removable foldback heating element and so I would need to use a short ferrule because of the foldback. In this case, the clamp has full clearance from below because you are below the bottom of the vessel. Would you have any concerns about this configuration? How close to the bottom surface of the kettle do you believe the ferrule could be placed? With dimpling, it seems like you should be able to get the ferrule just above the bottom surface. From your experience, would you have any concerns about this position and orientation?

I'm debating the soldered-on-one-inch-nut idea as well, but it seems like for a fold-back element and wanting to get the element placed as close to the bottom surface of the vessel as possible, the tri-clover ferrule offers the greatest flexibility (as well as being easily removable).

thanks again,

-fafrd
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:30 PM   #1130
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Originally Posted by swstim View Post
Same for me. You can see pictures of my setup up a few posts, the last pic shows that there's not much clearance there between the clamp and the wall, but the curvature of the vessel helps.
So do you think that coming off of the center of the bottom of the vessel for a bottom drain (flat surface - no curvature) that there would not be enough clearance to get the clamp in place with a short ferrule?
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