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Old 12-07-2012, 03:40 PM   #1071
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I picked up a few different lengths of grade 8 bolt to do mine. Yeah, there is some tension, but not a crazy amount. Have you greased the threads? That would go a LONG way in helping not ruin the bolts. Or... go with the highest grade SS bolt you can find and make sure to lube the threads.

Machine bolts, by industry standard, have thread lengths that are something like 2.5 x diameter

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Old 12-07-2012, 08:11 PM   #1072
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Make sure to use the bolt poking out through the hole and tighten the nut...if you tighten the bolt, you will strip the threads.

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Old 12-07-2012, 11:25 PM   #1073
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Well didn't lube the threads that probably would of helped alot. but now I'm done putting fittings on keggles so if I do do this again I'll remember that one.

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Old 12-08-2012, 12:44 AM   #1074
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I respectfully disagree that threaded rod won't work well - As long as the diameter is the same, there is no practical difference in how much tension a bolt can take versus threaded rod. I'd also stick to regular steel over stainless because its a little more forgiving and won't come in contact with the kettle wall.

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Old 12-08-2012, 09:25 PM   #1075
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I had to go to a hardened bolt to keep from locking the nut onto the bolt due to heat build up when tightening. That's all I am saying. maybe Huaco's idea of lubricating the threads will keep that issue down and threaded rod will work. Good luck with that. I have done over 12 different fittings for the new rig I am building and they seem to have been breaking every 5th time or so of coarse I did not lube the threads.

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Old 12-09-2012, 12:12 PM   #1076
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I used threaded rod (although it's 5/8") with no problems. There is no perceivable heat build up of the rod that I can tell, and it goes through with very little effort at all. I had my tool machined so perhaps its the continuous slope that makes it easier to go through.

What size hole are you drilling/cutting?

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Old 12-09-2012, 03:59 PM   #1077
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That's a good idea to machine the tool. I like that.

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Old 12-09-2012, 08:54 PM   #1078
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So I finally soldered a half coupling in ........backwards.

I was fiddling with it trying to get it to go in there straight and forgot about the orientation.

So, how to get it out? Heat and tap or something similar?

On the bright side, the fit and solder look good.

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Old 12-09-2012, 09:14 PM   #1079
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i mark all my half couplings on the end with a sharpee. black side out, always. so i can't eff that up.

as for getting it out, you'll have to do it HOT and use the tool or a hammer to bang it back out. maybe hit it hard with the torch with the jig already in it, and then tighten as it's hot? in electronics solder, they have a desoldering braid, you heat the solder and the braid and it wicks the solder out. something like that may also work?

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Old 12-09-2012, 09:27 PM   #1080
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Thanks for the ideas slakwhere, I'm going to ponder which way to go with this.

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