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Old 12-06-2012, 11:44 PM   #1061
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Grinder to the edge of the coupling to get enough of a taper to pull it through?

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Old 12-07-2012, 12:51 AM   #1062
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Grinder to the edge of the coupling to get enough of a taper to pull it through?
Thanks. I may try doing that with my dremel. Maybe that'll be enough to get it started.
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:55 AM   #1063
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I just finished reading this entire thread, and my eyes are burning.

First let me say thanks to all the people that posted great instructions and pictures of the whole process. I now feel very confident in trying this myself and can't wait to do it. However, I still have some questions and need some clarification.

1. Through all the reading, I saw that people were using different diameters of the Harris Stay-Brite 8. The two popular ones I saw were 1/8 and 1/16. Is there a common consensus on which one to use?

2. Planning on making the keg tool from nostalgia instructions, and from what I have read, I should really go with the 9/16" bolt, but I can not for the life of me find a 9/16" bolt fully threaded. Where are people finding these bolts, or does it really even matter if it is fully threaded?

3. For my temperature probes and heat elements, I'll be using 1/4" and 1" welding spuds from Amazon and BrewHardware, but I'm not really sure how to silver solder these. Is it just the same process as the couplers? I've read that you don't need to dimple your holes for the welding spuds, so how do you make the welding spud stay in place while you solder it? Also Bobby mentions that you need to make a hole size of 1-9/16" for the 1" spud, but doesn't say what size hole you need to make for the 1/4" spud. Does any one know?

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Old 12-07-2012, 03:00 AM   #1064
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The spuds are super easy. No dimpling is needed. Drilling the hole was more of a pain for me than the soldering. I've had more trouble installing weldless kits.

To prepare for soldering, simply wind the Stay Brite around the boss of the spud overlapping on each turn, like a clock spring. Wind all the way to the edge of the flange. You basically want solder fully covering the back face of the spud where it contacts the outer tank wall.

Liberally apply the flux on all surfaces you want the solder to stick to. (This stuff is pretty strong. Wear proper PPE. You may notice it bubbling/fizzing.)

With the hole in the vessel facing up, rest the spud in the hole, with the solder sandwiched in between. Gravity is all you need... nothing else is needed to keep it in place.

Light your torch and start heating. You mostly want to heat from the top, and mostly on the spud... but really just keep the torch moving. Don't overthink it. The flux will boil and turn black and then magically the solder will melt and the spud will sink down nicely on to the vessel. Don't over do it. Once it sweats all around you are pretty much done.

After it cools down you will be ecstatic once you see how nice the bead fillet is on the inside.

1. You'll be good with the regular Stay Brite. The flux+solder kit is more than enough for your homebrew projects. I'm pretty sure it's 1/16.

2. I had the same issue with the bolt. I wish I ordered it from McMaster when I ordered the tool parts. I figured I'd go to HD and get one. FAIL. That and my issue with too large & too small couplers is why I abandoned the dimpling method at this time and went with spuds.

3. Not sure on the 1/4" spud but you are pretty much in drill bit range on that, so I'd just get the spud in hand and select the smallest bit that exceeds the OD of the boss.

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Old 12-07-2012, 03:11 AM   #1065
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Originally Posted by latencymachine View Post
The spuds are super easy. No dimpling is needed. Drilling the hole was more of a pain for me than the soldering. I've had more trouble installing weldless kits.

To prepare for soldering, simply wind the Stay Brite around the boss of the spud overlapping on each turn, like a clock spring. Wind all the way to the edge of the flange. You basically want solder fully covering the back face of the spud where it contacts the outer tank wall.

Liberally apply the flux on all surfaces you want the solder to stick to. (This stuff is pretty strong. Wear proper PPE. You may notice it bubbling/fizzing.)

With the hole in the vessel facing up, rest the spud in the hole, with the solder sandwiched in between. Gravity is all you need... nothing else is needed to keep it in place.

Light your torch and start heating. You mostly want to heat from the top, and mostly on the spud... but really just keep the torch moving. Don't overthink it. The flux will boil and turn black and then magically the solder will melt and the spud will sink down nicely on to the vessel. Don't over do it. Once it sweats all around you are pretty much done.

After it cools down you will be ecstatic once you see how nice the bead fillet is on the inside.

1. You'll be good with the regular Stay Brite. The flux+solder kit is more than enough for your homebrew projects. I'm pretty sure it's 1/16.

2. I had the same issue with the bolt. I wish I ordered it from McMaster when I ordered the tool parts. I figured I'd go to HD and get one. FAIL. That and my issue with too large & too small couplers is why I abandoned the dimpling method at this time and went with spuds.

3. Not sure on the 1/4" spud but you are pretty much in drill bit range on that, so I'd just get the spud in hand and select the smallest bit that exceeds the OD of the boss.
Such a happy story AND all true.
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:42 PM   #1066
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2. Planning on making the keg tool from nostalgia instructions, and from what I have read, I should really go with the 9/16" bolt, but I can not for the life of me find a 9/16" bolt fully threaded. Where are people finding these bolts, or does it really even matter if it is fully thread
I use threaded rod that is continuously threaded, just pick up an extra pair of nuts and a washer for the 'bolt' end.

ACE had 12" lengths for $3-6. I'm not sure if HD has short lengths or only 4'&8' you'd need to cut down.
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:47 PM   #1067
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Just my opinion guys, but the spuds from brewhardware.com seem like a great solution. Sure dimpling also works really well, but for someone looking to start fittings on a brew rig, the spuds seem great!

On further thought, perhaps the price of spuds vs couplings make dimpling cost effective if you are doing multiple fittings?

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Old 12-07-2012, 01:06 PM   #1068
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Spuds are great, their downside is that they are single sided vs. a fitting can be put on each side of the coupling.

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Old 12-07-2012, 01:09 PM   #1069
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Spuds are great, their downside is that they are single sided vs. a fitting can be put on each side of the coupling.
Wow your quick, I just went to edit my post to regarding the single sidedness of spuds...great realtime info here at HBT....cheers!
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:05 PM   #1070
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Don't know how well the threaded rod will work. I have already ruined two bolts doing this there is a lot of tension on them when dempling. I couldn't find the all threaded bolts either so what i did was buy a short and a longer one so I will always have threads to do the job. I use the short one to demple and the longer one to press the fitting into the demple.

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