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-   -   Soldering Stainless steel (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/)

Skins_Brew 01-21-2010 09:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)

When I experimented silver soldering a few months ago, I was using an Oxy acetylene torch, the stay clean flux, and standard plumbing solder and the results were pretty crappy. I was thinking about this post today and gave it another try. This time I was using a propane torch and I was getting some decent results! There was actual metal to metal bonding of the solder! The one thing that totally screwed me in my previous attempt was the lack of sanding! I sanded the parts today and had instant success.
Attachment 14415

I did not clean them up, but I was pretty satisfied with the results and the ease of this. I may practice a little more and give a keg a try.


AiredAle 04-12-2010 10:38 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Here's pictures of my eHLT as threatened yesterday. It's not completed as you can see. When done, it will have legs like appliance levelers threaded into the bottom rim to keep the keg off the elbow. In the third picture you can see the soldered-on elbow, in the first a good view of the hole in the rim where the pipe will exit and the valve will be. The secondis the interior of the HLT with the center hole. This hole is 15/16" diameter.


AiredAle 04-12-2010 10:38 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Here's pictures of my eHLT as threatened yesterday. It's not completed as you can see. When done, it will have legs like appliance levelers threaded into the bottom rim to keep the keg off the elbow. In the third picture you can see the soldered-on elbow, in the first a good view of the hole in the rim where the pipe will exit and the valve will be. The secondis the interior of the HLT with the center hole. This hole is 15/16" diameter.


AiredAle 04-12-2010 10:38 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Here's pictures of my eHLT as threatened yesterday. It's not completed as you can see. When done, it will have legs like appliance levelers threaded into the bottom rim to keep the keg off the elbow. In the third picture you can see the soldered-on elbow, in the first a good view of the hole in the rim where the pipe will exit and the valve will be. The secondis the interior of the HLT with the center hole. This hole is 15/16" diameter.


xsevenx6 05-08-2010 01:21 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Hey guys,
I just tried brazing SS for the first time. Like many of you I'm pretty anal about what touches my wort so I researched Brewmoor's suggestion of Saft-Silv 56% silver solder. This stuff is NSF meaning it is safe to use on food product and it works great. I used a plain Bernzomatic torch with MAPP gas (yellow tank). One thing that I found is that you can't heat your parts up too much or the solder will just flow everywhere, and you wont get a good seal, especially if you have a larger gap on your kettle, like I did. You have to balance between the melting point and the "freezing" point of the solder so you can move the solder around to fill the gaps correctly. Also, making sure your surfaces are shiny clean before applying your flux onto the surface (I used Harris Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux ($6). Please be aware, I worked outside with fan blowing the toxic fumes away from me. Here is all the stuff I used to create this joint. Good Luck!!


xsevenx6 05-08-2010 01:21 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Hey guys,
I just tried brazing SS for the first time. Like many of you I'm pretty anal about what touches my wort so I researched Brewmoor's suggestion of Saft-Silv 56% silver solder. This stuff is NSF meaning it is safe to use on food product and it works great. I used a plain Bernzomatic torch with MAPP gas (yellow tank). One thing that I found is that you can't heat your parts up too much or the solder will just flow everywhere, and you wont get a good seal, especially if you have a larger gap on your kettle, like I did. You have to balance between the melting point and the "freezing" point of the solder so you can move the solder around to fill the gaps correctly. Also, making sure your surfaces are shiny clean before applying your flux onto the surface (I used Harris Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux ($6). Please be aware, I worked outside with fan blowing the toxic fumes away from me. Here is all the stuff I used to create this joint. Good Luck!!


xsevenx6 05-08-2010 01:21 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Hey guys,
I just tried brazing SS for the first time. Like many of you I'm pretty anal about what touches my wort so I researched Brewmoor's suggestion of Saft-Silv 56% silver solder. This stuff is NSF meaning it is safe to use on food product and it works great. I used a plain Bernzomatic torch with MAPP gas (yellow tank). One thing that I found is that you can't heat your parts up too much or the solder will just flow everywhere, and you wont get a good seal, especially if you have a larger gap on your kettle, like I did. You have to balance between the melting point and the "freezing" point of the solder so you can move the solder around to fill the gaps correctly. Also, making sure your surfaces are shiny clean before applying your flux onto the surface (I used Harris Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux ($6). Please be aware, I worked outside with fan blowing the toxic fumes away from me. Here is all the stuff I used to create this joint. Good Luck!!


xsevenx6 05-08-2010 01:21 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Hey guys,
I just tried brazing SS for the first time. Like many of you I'm pretty anal about what touches my wort so I researched Brewmoor's suggestion of Saft-Silv 56% silver solder. This stuff is NSF meaning it is safe to use on food product and it works great. I used a plain Bernzomatic torch with MAPP gas (yellow tank). One thing that I found is that you can't heat your parts up too much or the solder will just flow everywhere, and you wont get a good seal, especially if you have a larger gap on your kettle, like I did. You have to balance between the melting point and the "freezing" point of the solder so you can move the solder around to fill the gaps correctly. Also, making sure your surfaces are shiny clean before applying your flux onto the surface (I used Harris Stay-Silv White Brazing Flux ($6). Please be aware, I worked outside with fan blowing the toxic fumes away from me. Here is all the stuff I used to create this joint. Good Luck!!


Ricand 12-17-2010 07:21 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
$9 for a hex nipple is way out of control. Even after my markup, I'd probably sell them for around $4.50 if I decided to go that route.

You can buy Stay Brite 8 kits with the flux for under $10.
Or you could buy this really pretty one from MMC for only $21.80 each..

drkwoods 01-12-2011 07:23 PM

2 Attachment(s)

I actually soldered the swage (Tool) together at the washers and the bolt head to make it more stable and better at centering. I also tapered (red lines) the last part of the coupling so that it "pops" thru the hole.



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