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Old 03-04-2012, 05:06 PM   #111
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It's probably to force the element on rather than control with the PID. Manual "mode" on the PID would still require the auto mode on the switch.

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Old 03-04-2012, 11:44 PM   #112
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The mash dump. Obviously I need a shorter trash can.

image-3628005385.jpg   image-3825770707.jpg   image-412117360.jpg   image-2131045837.jpg  
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:41 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
It's probably to force the element on rather than control with the PID. Manual "mode" on the PID would still require the auto mode on the switch.
Yea the BK an HLT have HOA switches (Hand/Off/Auto). I messed with PID mode and manual after auto tune and there just seemed to be more accuracy on my system with on/off mode. FWIW this PID can switch from Manu to PID mode with a button on the front of the unit. But not from Manu to on/off mode
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:10 AM   #114
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I have a March 815 and the new HF from More Beer. Externally they are identical.. its the impeller they changed. Its supposed to prevent cavitation. Running them both side by side I can say the HF does do a better job..

Here's a link to one thread on the differences and upgrading to it, if you wish to.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/can-i-upgrade-typical-march-pump-hf-213577/

Cheers!!
My pumps are the Morebeer H315HF, I bought them from Morebeer.
And I'm still pretty sure they're the March 815 pumps by any name.

Btw, that link was to upgrade an 809HS...

Cheers!
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:28 AM   #115
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My pumps are the Morebeer H315HF, I bought them from Morebeer.
And I'm still pretty sure they're the March 815 pumps by any name.

Btw, that link was to upgrade an 809HS...

Cheers!
the 315 is an 809. 315 is MoreBeer's part # and 809 is March's #. The new 315HF pump (it is an upgraded 809, go look at The link again.) has a bigger impeller I was able to easily recirc a mild boil (simmer) without cavitation. My system has an old 809 (315) and the new upgraded 809 like you have. (315HF).
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:05 PM   #116
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The mash dump. Obviously I need a shorter trash can.
My old rig had a similar dump setup. I made a "hoe" that had a blade cut to the same radius as the inside of the keg with a handle about 3 feet long with a "T" handle on the end. This worked great for getting the spent grain out of the tun quickly. My tun didn't lay over as far as yours & I attached a chute to keep the grain from falling into the upper skirt area.

I made the hoe from SS scrap and the blade was made from a small, cheap plastic cutting board but wood would work well too. The chute was SS but I suppose something similar could be made from a plastic bucket or any sheet metal.

It looks like a shorter trash can in your case will work fine....
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:55 PM   #117
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My old rig had a similar dump setup. I made a "hoe" that had a blade cut to the same radius as the inside of the keg with a handle about 3 feet long with a "T" handle on the end. This worked great for getting the spent grain out of the tun quickly. My tun didn't lay over as far as yours & I attached a chute to keep the grain from falling into the upper skirt area.

I made the hoe from SS scrap and the blade was made from a small, cheap plastic cutting board but wood would work well too. The chute was SS but I suppose something similar could be made from a plastic bucket or any sheet metal.

It looks like a shorter trash can in your case will work fine....
Yea Im gonna poke around and see what shorter can would work, since this thing can go reverse vertical..
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:13 PM   #118
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how do you like the camlocks? any pics of how your mash tun is configured?

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Old 03-05-2012, 09:08 PM   #119
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how do you like the camlocks? any pics of how your mash tun is configured?
The Camlocks are great! I set up every connection that way even the water supply. You can get away barehanded with the finger rings but I usually slap on the brewing gloves for the BK connections. My MLT is a SS false bottom
From Saabco http://www.brewmagic.com/products/false-bottom-2 My HEX returns to the mash thru a SS swaged in coupling near the top of its side. It feeds a 1/2" PEX pipe that is bent to fit 360* around the top of the inside kettle. The PEX pipe is drilled in about 20 places all at a 45* angle. This achieves a swirl on the surface of the mash and prevents problems etc. The kettle is bottom Drained so I can sparge every drop out if I wish
Also the height of the PEX pipe is adjustable so it can sit right atop the mash. This way I prevent hot side air-ation
image-3138082129.jpg  
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:19 PM   #120
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Here's a Video look inside the kettles
www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlBlRkj2nXo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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