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Old 02-26-2012, 01:48 PM   #101
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Nice work - I like the dump arrangement!!

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Old 02-29-2012, 05:16 PM   #102
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Deep into the Auber Manual.. IM not sure running these guys on PID would be best or On/Off.. I think PID may work for the BK if I want to prevent boil over.. But On/Off may be the best way to go for the HLT.. Since I want the one PID to control the Mash/HEX recirc pump, I'll probably do that on Manu or PID so I can simply have it cycling on and off based more on Time intervals. In theory if the HLT is at the MASH temp then the MASH pump PID will never overshoot the MASH temp.. it'll simply keep it there.. So I really dont need that PID control there, but I'll figure out a reason why someday.. LOL

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Old 03-02-2012, 01:50 PM   #103
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great write up! I am building my parts list and this helps me tremendously. Do you have the frame measurements by chance?

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Old 03-02-2012, 09:09 PM   #104
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Here's what Ive got basically. Need any more?? LMK

Just remember: My rail (Deck) design is so that the Kettle sits right on the edges.. (The Mash tun is a pretty normal distance apart)
make sure this is what you want befor you use these plans. My Heat shields go all the way up and under the Keggle, so no flame can escape the sides or burn my stand. Gasses escape in the rear

planssmall.jpg  
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:05 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drkwoods View Post
Here's what Ive got basically. Need any more?? LMK

Just remember: My rail (Deck) design is so that the Kettle sits right on the edges.. (The Mash tun is a pretty normal distance apart)
make sure this is what you want befor you use these plans. My Heat shields go all the way up and under the Keggle, so no flame can escape the sides or burn my stand. Gasses escape in the rear
Thank you so much. Is there any part of the design that you would do differently IE the height up the frame? I plan to throw in a MT burner just in case I ever want to direct heat. I love the edge frame design and your heat flow set up looks very efficient. I wish I would have thought of the bottom drain before I welded in my drains to all three keggles on the sides, regardless it will still work.

Also, if the rail is placed properly, do you think this system could support 50 gallon kettles or is the LP gas too inefficient for that size? Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:29 PM   #106
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Any updates yet?

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Old 03-04-2012, 05:19 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaellcoates

Thank you so much. Is there any part of the design that you would do differently IE the height up the frame? I plan to throw in a MT burner just in case I ever want to direct heat. I love the edge frame design and your heat flow set up looks very efficient. I wish I would have thought of the bottom drain before I welded in my drains to all three keggles on the sides, regardless it will still work.

Also, if the rail is placed properly, do you think this system could support 50 gallon kettles or is the LP gas too inefficient for that size? Thanks!
The only things Id do different? Stainless steel frame next time. And I'd place the rear rail about 2" below the deck level. I'd exhaust all the heat/gas to the rear and guide it out the back on both sides. Otherwise that's about it. 50 gal kettles? Wow, it might be able to, but that's a butt load of weight amigo!! I'd wanna up the frame a little on the support posts for that and maybe add 2 middle casters. And yes, 50 gal kettles would require high pressure burners I think 100,000+ btu minimum, this baby would not heat that up in a reasonable time
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:28 PM   #108
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In action!! Dough in, mash, mash out and sparge all just a touch of a button or two. Nails the temps. And looks like On/Off mode is best with a wider T setting on these PIDs

image-3561514103.jpg   image-966344937.jpg   image-2210018613.jpg  
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:29 PM   #109
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More pics of the Fun. Making a Pliny clone

image-2384781991.jpg   image-3882832694.jpg  
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:44 PM   #110
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You have a switch to change PIDs to manual mode? Isn't it just a button on the screen to do that?

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