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Old 10-23-2012, 06:45 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by gifty74
So I took my 10-tip burner last night and mocked up a manifold to test for flame control. I have 1/2" hose coming out of the house feeding my manifold (soon to be on my rig). That goes through and in-line regulator (Maxitrol 325-3) and then onto the burner. With the ball valve after the regulator I got slightly better control than without it, but the regulator didn't add as much control as I thought. I could not get the flame very low without it turning pretty yellow (poor burn). I'm thinking what I might do is take out some tips (maybe down to 6?) and plug the holes with a simple 1/4"-20 bolt. You guys thoughts?
Do a search on this forum for burner problems. There's a thread that shows issues like this and someone refered them to a website that explains to you how to solve most of the problems involved in setting up your burners. It's very informative and will most likely solve your issue.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:53 PM   #182
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Sorry couldn't remember thread did a check it is "23 jet burner problems" glance through that thread it'll help you out. Lots of good info on seting burner right.

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Old 10-23-2012, 07:19 PM   #183
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Yes, I've been searching the forums for quite some time on how to set up these wok-style burners on natural gas. I've read through that thread, and there is good info, but it's mostly people having issues with the 32 or 23 tip burners, plugging jets, etc. I have a 10 tip which I thought was easier to control, and sufficient for 5 and 10 gal batches. The only thing I do not have hooked up yet is my Honeywell 8200 standing pilot with safety shutoff valve. That is supposed to have some pretty good control by being able to adjust the built-in regulator. I was trying the in-line regulator (at a 2psi set pressure, non adjustable) thinking it would give me more control than just running the NG line straight to the burner uninhibited. It really didn't do that. I read on other threads that even on the burner for the boil kettle, where you want a lot of heat to get to boil, and then back down the flame, you want to use a set in-line regulator with a ball valve after to fine tune the flame. My Honeywell should do a good job of keeping a nice low flame on my direct fired MT.

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Old 10-23-2012, 10:25 PM   #184
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If you are using natural gas instead of propane, you have to change the orifice to natural gas type. Also if you are using gas from your house there is no need for a regulator use the line straight in. It is already regulated to a low psi. The other question will be if you have a low presure or high presure burner. If it is high presure, it won't work on house gas line. Psi not high enough from gas meter. So you might want to go to propane so you can have more control over it. Hope that helps you.

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Old 11-06-2012, 03:44 PM   #185
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Beautiful rig !

I'm trying to figure out the flow path for all situations.

When you are sanitizing the chiller by pumping boiling wort through it, how do you get the wort back into the brew kettle ?

I understand that the pump under that kettle will get the wort into the manifold and then into the chiller, but how does it get from the chiller outlet back into the kettle ?

Thanks

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Old 11-06-2012, 04:49 PM   #186
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Beautiful rig !

I'm trying to figure out the flow path for all situations.

When you are sanitizing the chiller by pumping boiling wort through it, how do you get the wort back into the brew kettle ?

I understand that the pump under that kettle will get the wort into the manifold and then into the chiller, but how does it get from the chiller outlet back into the kettle ?

Thanks
Go back to page 1 and look at the first pic. It is an updated one that is a little different from some of the others on that page. It shows a return loop coming off the chiller on the right and coming back and teeing to the kettle return. When the valve to the left of the BK pump is closed and the one to the right is open, it forces the flow to the chiller and back to the return.

Here's a close up of the return loop:
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:56 PM   #187
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Go back to page 1 and look at the first pic. It is an updated one that is a little different from some of the others on that page. It shows a return loop coming off the chiller on the right and coming back and teeing to the kettle return. When the valve to the left of the BK pump is closed and the one to the right is open, it forces the flow to the chiller and back to the return.
Thanks ! That inlet (the loop back inlet) is there in the first picture but not in any of the rest. I missed it in that picture. That is a very neat and tidy way of doing it.

Do your QCs seal when they aren't connected ? If not, what closes that connector when the chiller loop back isn't connected into the system ? Do you have a cap for it or is there a valve in there somewhere ?
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:02 PM   #188
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Thanks ! That inlet (the loop back inlet) is there in the first picture but not in any of the rest. I missed it in that picture. That is a very neat and tidy way of doing it.

Do your QCs seal when they aren't connected ? If not, what closes that connector when the chiller loop back isn't connected into the system ? Do you have a cap for it or is there a valve in there somewhere ?
No the QD's don't seal when disconnected. Any of the QD's that have that feature usually end up getting plugged up.

There are no caps to the system. When setting up for a brew day, all hoses are connected to the system. I don't disconnect any hose during the brew day. The only exception to that is I disconnect the BK return line (vertical one) and drop it into my fermenter (Sanke keg on rollers) when chilling.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:05 PM   #189
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No the QD's don't seal when disconnected. Any of the QD's that have that feature usually end up getting plugged up.
I agree !

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There are no caps to the system. When setting up for a brew day, all hoses are connected to the system. I don't disconnect any hose during the brew day. The only exception to that is I disconnect the BK return line (vertical one) and drop it into my fermenter (Sanke keg on rollers) when chilling.
OK, that makes sense. And its a nice way to do it.

Sorry if you have explained this somewhere else.

I really appreciate the time you've put into this thread. Kudos.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:42 PM   #190
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2 more questions if you don't mind.

#1, theoretical question. Do the pumps block flow if they aren't running ? If you were (not saying that you want to) pumping hot water from the HLT to the cooler, does it seep past the MLT pump if it isn't running ? If you had the MLT outlet valve open, would it push water into the mash through the pump or would the pump stop it ?

#2, I love the way you mounted all the controls stuff under the aluminum checkerplate. However, what happens if something stops working while you are brewing ? Can you lift the checkerplate up to see what is going on or do you need to remove the kettles and flip the stand upside down to get at things ?

#3, if you had to do it again, would you change anything ? Do you ever worry about kicking a pump and breaking a pump head ?

Thanks in advance !

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