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Old 07-05-2012, 05:48 PM   #141
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However, do you just run tap water through the non-wort side? Does it chill quickly or do you somehow run ice water through the non-wort side while recirculating? I appreciate any response. Thanks!
Yes, I just use tap water from the hose. I get down to about 73-74 that way and then put my fermenter (sanke keg) inside a kegerator and it's down to 66-68 for pitching in an hour or so.

I once used an immersion chiller coil in a bucket with ice to run my water through that first, then into the plate chiller. I waited until the wort temp hit the low-mid 70's, then loaded ice into the bucket. This got it straight to pitching temp level, but after trying that, I figured waiting an hour or so in the kegerator/fermenter was a lot easier.

Your ground water is likely not as warm as mine, so the plate chiller will probably get you even lower.
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My Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Brutus Build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/single-tier-3-pump-bcs-462-automated-rig-204705/
My customized BCS-462 controller web interface: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/hacking-bcs-add-customized-web-pages-done-209388/
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:32 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by JonW
Yes, I just use tap water from the hose. I get down to about 73-74 that way and then put my fermenter (sanke keg) inside a kegerator and it's down to 66-68 for pitching in an hour or so.

I once used an immersion chiller coil in a bucket with ice to run my water through that first, then into the plate chiller. I waited until the wort temp hit the low-mid 70's, then loaded ice into the bucket. This got it straight to pitching temp level, but after trying that, I figured waiting an hour or so in the kegerator/fermenter was a lot easier.

Your ground water is likely not as warm as mine, so the plate chiller will probably get you even lower.
Jon,

I'm in the same boat as you per-say with living in Florida. My tap water is close to 80 in the summer and maybe 74 in the winter. That being said, I have a 40 plate chiller and use tap water to knock it down to at least the tap temp. Then I use a few bags of ice with water in my HLT and use my second pump to recirculate through the same side.. This knocks down to pitching temp in no time.
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:33 AM   #143
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Sweet rig!

Do you recirculate the wort through the chiller or is it a one time pass? I didn't see how it would recirculate from the diagram.

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Old 07-06-2012, 02:38 AM   #144
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Sweet rig!

Do you recirculate the wort through the chiller or is it a one time pass? I didn't see how it would recirculate from the diagram.
You can see the wort return (added later) in the updated pic #1 on the first page. This lets me recirculate back into the kettle until I get it down low enough to go to the fermenter.
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My Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Brutus Build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/single-tier-3-pump-bcs-462-automated-rig-204705/
My customized BCS-462 controller web interface: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/hacking-bcs-add-customized-web-pages-done-209388/
My 8 tap, 11 keg, upright Keezer build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/upright-keezer-8-taps-11-kegs-371438/
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:43 AM   #145
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You can see the wort return (added later) in the updated pic #1 on the first page. This lets me recirculate back into the kettle until I get it down low enough to go to the fermenter.
I see it now - thanks.
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:53 AM   #146
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I used this SSR IC: http://www.futurlec.com/Relays/SSR3A48D05pr.shtml

I bought an AA battery holder to put the battery external to the igniter and then soldered wires into the igniter so it could be controlled by the SSR. Sorry I don't have any pics or a schematic of it.
Jon - I assume you have the BCS trigger the solenoid gas valves and the bbq ignitor's SSR simultaneously, correct? How long does the ignitor stay on? I assume only momentarily. I'm planning to run my solenoid's and bbq ignitors from a control panel version. (ie. turn burner switch and it fires the solenoid and ssr for the ignitor.) Any issues with the ignitor only firing momentarily? Is there a way to make the ignitor fire for a bit of time? Capacitors maybe?
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:13 PM   #147
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Jon - I assume you have the BCS trigger the solenoid gas valves and the bbq ignitor's SSR simultaneously, correct? How long does the ignitor stay on? I assume only momentarily. I'm planning to run my solenoid's and bbq ignitors from a control panel version. (ie. turn burner switch and it fires the solenoid and ssr for the ignitor.) Any issues with the ignitor only firing momentarily? Is there a way to make the ignitor fire for a bit of time? Capacitors maybe?
There is a setting in the BCS controller called "Auto Ignition" that can be programmed to fire igniters when the burners come on. My igniters come on for 2 seconds right when the gas valves open. You need a second or two of gas flowing to get them ignited.
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My Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Brutus Build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/single-tier-3-pump-bcs-462-automated-rig-204705/
My customized BCS-462 controller web interface: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/hacking-bcs-add-customized-web-pages-done-209388/
My 8 tap, 11 keg, upright Keezer build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/upright-keezer-8-taps-11-kegs-371438/
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:48 PM   #148
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FYI - Solenoid valves are different than ball valves. I have solenoid valves on the NG burners, but SS ball valves on the liquid stuff.

http://www.electric-valve.com/ I ordered direct from China. Shipping costs is a killer, but if you get a few people together to order a quantity of them, it makes it worth it.
Do you mind if I ask how much you paid? Im looking on cloning your rig.....

Also, on their site, how do you get a quote?
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:26 PM   #149
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I got ahold of the company in china. I was quoted ~$39.00 each. I asked for a quote on eight and shipping from china to Ohio was $80. As much as I want them, I'm going to have to go with manual valves for now. FYI, ONE valve from grainger was over 300!

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Old 08-18-2012, 10:37 PM   #150
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I got ahold of the company in china. I was quoted ~$39.00 each. I asked for a quote on eight and shipping from china to Ohio was $80. As much as I want them, I'm going to have to go with manual valves for now. FYI, ONE valve from grainger was over 300!
Grainger's typically only good if you need something NOW or if you have a company account that orders there a lot. Their retail pricing is generally through the roof on all their products.
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