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Old 11-05-2011, 02:18 PM   #111
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I should be done with my rig in the next couple weeks. I thought you might like to see your influence. I'll post a full explanation when it's all done.

http://i.imgur.com/3AEGS.jpg

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Old 11-05-2011, 07:11 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by kevmo
I should be done with my rig in the next couple weeks. I thought you might like to see your influence. I'll post a full explanation when it's all done.

http://i.imgur.com/3AEGS.jpg
Just keep an eye on how close those motorized valves are to the burners. I think i have the same ones and had to move them away from my burners because they were starting to melt.
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:10 PM   #113
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Just keep an eye on how close those motorized valves are to the burners. I think i have the same ones and had to move them away from my burners because they were starting to melt.
What distance worked for you? I'm going heat shield some of the other components maybe I'll try to shield them too.
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Old 11-06-2011, 02:31 AM   #114
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Just keep an eye on how close those motorized valves are to the burners. I think i have the same ones and had to move them away from my burners because they were starting to melt.
Ditto on the valve distance for heat. You have to be real careful with that. I wouldn't want my valves any closer than they currently are because of the heat.
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Old 11-06-2011, 02:40 AM   #115
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Any update on your ignitors? I'm very interested to hear how they are working out for you.
Brewed today with the new igniter system. It worked flawlessly! The BCS fires the igniters for a few seconds every time a gas valve opens. My standing pilot lights kept getting blown out by wind, so this was a nice change.

FYI - there is no safety system on these. If the igniter doesn't light the burner, then gas will still be flowing. I have a manual override button to also trigger the igniters in the event the 3 second auto-trigger does not get them lit (which did not happen at all today). Just like when using the pilot light system, I do not leave the area just in case a burner does not light for any reason.

The igniter is a 3 probe igniter from Walmart (about $20). It uses a single AA battery for firing the igniters. I hardwired the switch of it to a DC SSR. The BCS triggers the SSR, which triggers the igniter. Simple setup.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:07 PM   #116
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It looks to me like your temp probes are on the "in" side of the pumps, a lot of rigs I have seen put them closer to the vessel being monitored. How did you decide to put them there? Has it worked well? Awesome rig, I will be borrowing a lot from you when I get the time and money....cheers...wnc

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Old 12-23-2011, 04:20 PM   #117
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It looks to me like your temp probes are on the "in" side of the pumps, a lot of rigs I have seen put them closer to the vessel being monitored. How did you decide to put them there? Has it worked well? Awesome rig, I will be borrowing a lot from you when I get the time and money....cheers...wnc
Since I do continuous recirculation on both the HLT and MLT, it doesn't matter that they are not in the vessel. I like the probes where they are because it keeps them protected and keeps the wiring out of the way.
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:59 PM   #118
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Cool, I like that they are down there away from flame and out of the way.

One more quick question...have you ever had trouble with stuck sparges or over compacting the grain bed with constant recirculation? On my current system, this will happen if I vorlauf too quickly (open the pump outflow too much)

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Old 12-23-2011, 06:02 PM   #119
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Cool, I like that they are down there away from flame and out of the way.

One more quick question...have you ever had trouble with stuck sparges or over compacting the grain bed with constant recirculation? On my current system, this will happen if I vorlauf too quickly (open the pump outflow too much)
No problem at all. I mill my own grain and I have the mill set to a very fine crush. The BL false bottom works very well. I do have the flow throttled back quite a bit, but still at a good rate. I have run it through at full throttle and it did not stick. Also, I re-stir the grain every 15 minutes and then let it sit for the last 15 before starting the fly sparge.

I usually adjust my valves for 3 different levels:
Full Flow - When I'm heating strike water, it recirculates at full throttle.
Med. Flow - When mashing, I want the recirculation to keep the temperature consistent throughout the grain bed.
Low Flow - When fly sparging, I cut the flow to get my 12-14 gallons of wort in about 45 minutes.
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My Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Brutus Build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/single-tier-3-pump-bcs-462-automated-rig-204705/
My customized BCS-462 controller web interface: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/hacking-bcs-add-customized-web-pages-done-209388/
My 8 tap, 11 keg, upright Keezer build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/upright-keezer-8-taps-11-kegs-371438/
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:08 PM   #120
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No problem at all. I mill my own grain and I have the mill set to a very fine crush. The BL false bottom works very well. I do have the flow throttled back quite a bit, but still at a good rate. I have run it through at full throttle and it did not stick. Also, I re-stir the grain every 15 minutes and then let it sit for the last 15 before starting the fly sparge.

I usually adjust my valves for 3 different levels:
Full Flow - When I'm heating strike water, it recirculates at full throttle.
Med. Flow - When mashing, I want the recirculation to keep the temperature consistent throughout the grain bed.
Low Flow - When fly sparging, I cut the flow to get my 12-14 gallons of wort in about 45 minutes.
Thanks...I was planning on using my current false bottom on my build, but may need to reevaluate. Thanks for the responses....wnc
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