Simple Brewing est. 2009 : The build
So my friend Jeremy has been wanting to start brewing for about a year. He has saved up some cash now and chosen a design. Here were some of the things we were kicking around:
Initially he wanted to brew 10g at a time. However, his main requirements for the system are that it be completely portable because he likes to travel brew, it be cost conscious, and be well designed and easy to brew on. After some thought he decided 10g wasn't that important so we considered smaller batches. After seeing Jkarp's brewery, we had a good idea what we wanted to do.
So I designed the following system, based heavily on Brutus 20 and Jkarp's design. I call it the Twent-E2 and Jeremy is calling his brewery "simple".
Here is my first shot at a logo for him. This will likely change and I will update as it does.
Here is the design for the brewery. It is two 1/4 bbl kegs. We selected the rubber coated type for insulation and because they look cool.
and assembled for brewing:
A 2000kW water heater element is installed in the boil kettle (the top vessel), and is used to heat mash and sparge water, and to boil the wort. The lid for the boil kettle (not shown) will include a 25' copper coil and a stirrer. The coil will act as both a HERMS coil and as a chiller. The stirrer will be used to distribute heat during use as a HERMS and as a whirlpool during chilling.
Here is how the brewery will function on brewday:
All components are stainless except the copper coil. Here is a breakdown of everything including supplies for his startup brewery:
If you want the spreadsheet format, send me a PM with your email address and I will forward the sheet to you.
Here is an assembly guide:
The toolbox will include all controls (PID, element switch, pump switch, and stirrer switch) and the pump.
I think that is about it. I will update this thread as the build continues over the next month or so. We are shooting to be brewing at Simple Brewery before the new year!!!
Totally...freaking...awesome. Nice job, BK. Jeremy is lucky to have a friend like you willing to help him out so much. Can't wait to see pix as this progresses.
Wiring and control box
If anyone sees something wrong here please let me know.
The SSR will have a heat sink attached and a 120 VAC muffin fan will be blowing through the box to cool the pump and the heat sink.
The little red circle by the PID in the figures is a panel mount for the RTD sensor.
Thanks for looking.
Front view of box:
Top view of box. The yellow switch will be for the pump, the green for stirrer, and the red for the element (PID).
Back view. Everything will be connected via jump extension cords, this way it will pack down easier.
Here is the wiring diagram:
Cheers! Jeremy and I are getting together tomorrow, so maybe he will buy some more stuff and we can start soon!!! :ban:
I have no idea if the box will work or not, but it looks frickin' awesome!
Also, I got a quote to build this stand for $289... redick. Custom cut metal for it from Metal Express was only $64.00 and there material prices are normally really high. I am hoping I can find someone with a welder, otherwise he is going to have a wooden stand for a while.
What concerns would you have with the tool box? I haven't used a tool box control box thingy before so I want to know people's opinions before Jeremy starts buying stuff for it and I look like an idiot when it fails.
On face value it seems like a cool idea. I was inspired by the guys with pumps mounted in the tool box.
If the toolbox is metal and large enough, it could be used as the actual heatsink also....
Looks realllllly cool! Can't wait to see pics.
I love the idea. Life should be simple like this. I am subscribing to this thread. One day I will do this, but with 10g capacity.
Thanks! Updating to 240 would be pretty similar, but you would need 240VAC power.
UPDATE: I updated the wiring diagram to include the proper fuses (I think) and the actual wire routing via terminal blocks.
A couple of suggestions based on my (in-progress) build of a jkarp-type system:
1) You will probably want the SSR heatsink outside of the box. Mine is outside of my control box and it still gets to about 150F while controlling a 120V 2kW element. I don't think a muffin fan will be sufficient to offset the heat of the SSR and the pump in the same box.
2) It's tough to tell the scale of the box, but the wiring will take more space than you think, particularly the 12AWG stuff (for 20A).
3) You might want the PID always powered (or on a swtich separate from the element switch). I was originally going to wire mine as you did, but changed my mind and am glad I did; it's nice to have the PID live to get temp readings without having the elements on.
Having said all of that, it's an awesome design. Your friend will be very happy.
Message me if you need any sources for various parts.
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