Silver Solder Dimple - Pros/Cons to In/Out Dimple
 

Hey guys, I just wanted to see if I could get some opinions on a silver solder question.

Are there pros/cons to dimpling out/in?

On my keggle I pulled the dimple from the inside out, but I'm considering pulling the dimple in on my bayou classics. The following is my reasoning but I wanted to check with others before I confirmed.

Pros:
- Flame would be applied to the inside of kettle, thus keeping the kettle looking new.

- Solder would be easier to "watch" in order to stop flame once pooling. (Likely have a spotter)

Cons:
- Cut edge of stainless exposed to wort

I like to dimple inward and solder on the outside of the kettle. It looks nice from the outside to see a joint full of solder (if done properly) and also, there is less solder in contact with fluids. I know we use lead free solder, but still, the less, the better in my book.

This is how mine turned out on my keggles...

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...08148418_n.jpg

JUST MAKE SURE TO BACK-TORQUE THE SOLDERED FITTING WHEN INSTALLING HARDWARE!!!!!
(Yeah, ask me how I know...) lol! These joints are strong but not high-torque strong!

If you broke the solder joint free when you were installing fittings, then it's very likely that you had a cold solder in the first place. If the solder flows properly, you shouldn't be able to take it off with an impact wrench.

I was in the same boat recently. I was cleaning things up and decided to pull out all of my threaded fittings for a good cleaning. I ended up breaking off 2 of my soldered connectors, but after really close inspection I realized that the solder hadn't flowed well in the first place. They were water tight even without a well-flowed solder joint, but they weren't mechanically very well connected.

I am currently doing the same technique. Just did another one last night as a matter of fact... When I get done with mine, I have a nice ring of solder on the opposite side from the dimple. In my case, the inside of the keggle. I would say it is flowing pretty well. I wet all surfaces with flux and it is all sanded and cleaned with acetone prior to flux. I heat ONLY the heavier fitting, not the solder or sheet metal of the keg.
Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see where I am doing anything different than the techniques outlined in the HUGE thread here on HBT about soldering stainless steel... Only thing I am doing different is I use a MAPP Gas torch.

+1

The tensile strength of stay-brite 8 solder with stainless is around 15,000 psi. If properly soldered you shouldn't be able to break it loose installing a fitting.

My vote is to dimple inside out..