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Old 05-25-2012, 06:23 PM   #21
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Bummer...no blower/fan in the upper vent from the freezer to the fridge, just a bit of duct work from the coil in the back/bottom of the freezer up to the vent and across. Looks like the bottom vent is a return to the fan in the coil.

I plugged the fridge in to see what was still hot and nothing kicked on at all, which is what I expected as the thermostat should be acting like a switch to run the compressor.

Now...I have all this wiring that went the thermostat and what looks like a humidity sensor...what do I do with it?

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Old 05-25-2012, 06:56 PM   #22
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After stripping off the wiring for the water systems (drinking, ice machine), I'm left with this. The unlabeled red goes to the fridge side.


In the fridge side, the black and yellow are hot.


When I jump the red and black in the fridge, the compressor and fan kick on. I ran it for a few minutes to make sure everything is cooling properly and it's below 60* in a hurry. The red I jumped with the black hot has to go back to the main power terminals to distribute juice to the compressor and fan. If the PID will act as a switch to close those contacts when the temp gets too warm, I should be in business.


On the freezer side, only the yellow is hot. There's only yellow, white, blue, and ground.

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Old 05-25-2012, 07:06 PM   #23
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The only thing I'm concerned about is the hot yellow. I don't know where it picks up 120V from because there are no yellow wires where the power comes in from the power cord, and then, out of nowhere, a hot yellow is coming through the fridge and freezer wall.

No idea where the orange wires go. The come out of the fridge wall and I don't see them anywhere else on the appliance. I'm guessing they have something to do with the thermostat or humidity sensor...

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Old 05-25-2012, 07:24 PM   #24
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Andy @ Auber Instruments is thinking I need to use a contactor with a 120V coil to close the connection that I jumped to power the compressor and fan.

I can't find any information about the wattage of the compressor and fan to determine if the relay output of the PID can support it or if a contactor is necessary.

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Old 05-25-2012, 07:46 PM   #25
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Andy called back and thinks I'll be good without a contactor. I'm going out to grab a few things for a remodeling project and then I should be set to get moving on this.

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Old 05-26-2012, 01:12 AM   #26
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I'm going to try to run the power to the PID with the yellow. I'll put the black on 9, neutral on 10, and the red for the load on 7. Thermocouple is hooked up where it's supposed to be.

I'm hoping this will at least get my freezer side to the temp I want as I'm not worried about heat at this time of the year.

I definitely want to get the entire project complete with the PIDs properly mounted, but all I'm concerned about right now is getting the compressor to cool the entire unit to something between 62-70* F. When I get back from a 2-week road trip, I'll finish the computer fans to circulate air from the freezer, light bulb for heat, and mount everything.

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Old 05-26-2012, 01:57 AM   #27
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Power is on...now to figure out how to set the COOL parameter to make the PID cool the fridge rather than want to heat.

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Old 05-26-2012, 02:23 AM   #28
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COOL function figured out the way I want...11 is the setting for cooling, alarm suppression, and Fahrenheit.

However...my yellow hot is not always hot...so it's cycling the PID on and off in short intervals. I'm going to jump the yellow and red and see if that kicks the fan/compressor on.

I need the black constant hot to power the PID. I tried using that wire to power the PID on terminal 9, and jump it to terminal 8 for the relay, but as soon as the PID wanted to kick the compressor on, it blew the 1 amp fast blow fuse.

Out to see what happens with that yellow.

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Old 05-26-2012, 02:30 AM   #29
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No bueno on jumping the yellow with the red to kick the compressor on. It has 120V on it when the fridge is plugged in, but for some reason, it's not going to play along with me.

Back to the drawing board. I was hoping to use all the existing wiring without having to feed stuff through the walls/doors. I'm about to pull the water line through the wall and run a wire through that hole or try to feed a wire through the water line without pulling it out, maintaining the seal.

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Old 05-26-2012, 03:03 AM   #30
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There are two black wires bonded together providing a hot from the main power terminals. I split the two of them and one is in fact hot when the fridge is plugged in and the other black is not.

I tried using the hot to power the PID and the other on the relay output, but the relay is a dry switch, it's not powered through the PID. When I jumped terminals 8 and 9, I blew another fuse. So, the 1 amp fuse is not enough to run the compressor and PID on the same hot. I'm starting to think I need to run a separate line to supply the PID and use the constant hot inside the fridge on the relay output.

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