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Old 08-27-2012, 05:00 PM   #2061
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Here is my build. I finished it on 8/19/12 and home to brew on it on 8/26/12. I have the cover to install over the pumps and I will also make a wind guard from some al. flashing if needed.
I can't tell from the pic too well but did you use quick connects on your tubing connections and if so do you have a part number and were you baught them?
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:25 PM   #2062
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Did you make the counterflow chiller yourself or did you buy it? if you made it, how much it cost you in parts and do you have a part list?
Got lucky on eBay...$50. Chillus convolutus is the Latin name for it.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:09 AM   #2063
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Default Greetings from the Pacific Northwest



We did a couple 5 gallon batches using the kegs as the 'mashing station' that day and moved the boil pots onto other burners.

Then on the deck, copper coil installed in HLT but no pump yet to use it.



We were brewing a saison that day, my buddy decided to use the zest of an entire grapefruit, along with coriander and grains of paradise near the end of boil.




The evolution to a brewstand. The straight sided keg became the boil pot. The stand was built for a cooler-masher so the HLT wasn't high enough to mash in a keg. Luckily, I already had a short/wide 15 gallon pot that works well for the mash so far.





This was my first attempt at a keggle-mash false bottom device turned upside-down. When recirculating mash it was getting clogged so I widened a few of the slots. I've brewed once since this pic and I plan on widening more slots before next time. It's suspended by a bent up coat hanger but I'm thinking of putting a hole in the lid and just mounting it up there...



My keg already had a hole up near the top so I used a scrap of copper tube and bent up this attempt at a whirlpool arm. I think it goes down to around the 8 gallon mark before the bend. I didn't have high hopes, but when I went to clean the keg there was a cake about an inch tall and 6 inches accross. Maybe it worked some, this was with all pellet hops.

I'd like to hard plumb a simple water system on to the stand, but before next brew I'm going to throw together a simple 'hop spider' strainer bag suspension to use in boil. Last time we used whole leaf hops they stole more wort than we anticipated.

I made up a keg/carboy cleaner from a bucket that sits in the mash pot and uses the brewing pump to recirculate cleaner/sanitizer. I don't have a picture of it right now but I'll post one after it's next use.

Cheers!
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:15 AM   #2064
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My brew sculpture, all in all cost me about 25-27 dollars in screws and brackets. it consists of stop sign posts (been replacing stop sign 4x4's for my work and some were sub-quality for reuse). The thing is built like brick-sh*t-house. I was sitting on the top tier that is about 68 inches off the ground. the good news, it only weighs about 250-300 lbs. I like the fact I can store almost everything in there including a 10 gallon tote for all my random stuff.

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Old 08-28-2012, 06:22 AM   #2065
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all closed up (I messed up the gaping on my doors, kind of kicking myself in the rear for that...) but the shelf slides in and out and I am thinking about building a removable grain mill in to the main tier where there is space, have the hopper be removable and everything... Another DIY project for a different day =)

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Old 08-28-2012, 10:46 AM   #2066
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My brew sculpture, all in all cost me about 25-27 dollars in screws and brackets. it consists of stop sign posts
I agree, stop signs are overrated!

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The thing is built like brick-sh*t-house. I was sitting on the top tier that is about 68 inches off the ground. the good news, it only weighs about 250-300 lbs. I like the fact I can store almost everything in there including a 10 gallon tote for all my random stuff.
HA! "only weighs about 250-300 lbs"!?! Hope its on casters... but I love the ingenuity... and the price even better! And screw those stop signs!!!
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:55 PM   #2067
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Default My Stand

This stand has seen over 60 batches and is working great. This is the first time I ever got any pictures while we were actually brewing. This is during the mash of a 120 minute with 19 pounds of grains for a 5 gallon batch.
I also included a closeup picture of the control panel that we recently put together.

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Old 09-01-2012, 09:11 PM   #2068
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This was my first attempt at a keggle-mash false bottom device turned upside-down. When recirculating mash it was getting clogged so I widened a few of the slots. I've brewed once since this pic and I plan on widening more slots before next time. It's suspended by a bent up coat hanger but I'm thinking of putting a hole in the lid and just mounting it up there...
From the colour of the liquid and text you wrote, it looks like you're recirculating wort here right during the mash?

If yes, I would lower it so that it sits at the top of the mash, mostly submerged. You're aerating the wort having the wort drip down like this. You don't want to aerate the wort here. (Only prior to fermentation, after the wort is cooled).

Many of the commercial examples that have lautering systems like this are adjustable so that you can lower it to sit in the top inch or so of water/mash.

Or if you want to keep it simply, just remove the whole copper loop and just put the silicone hose on top of the grain bed. That's what I do, what Blichmann does with their autosparge arm, and what Sabco does with their brew setups. I get 95% efficiency doing it that way. No channeling at all. No chance of clogs.

Kal
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:19 PM   #2069
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I had more scrap wood sitting around in the yard than I thought, so for about $14 for the cost of the casters I was able to build this. It certainly isn't fancy, but it's sturdy, greatly eased yesterday's brew day, and can be used for other projects as well.

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Old 09-01-2012, 09:21 PM   #2070
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... just put the silicone hose on top of the grain bed. That's what I do, what Blichmann does with their autosparge arm, and what Sabco does with their brew setups. I get 95% efficiency doing it that way. No channeling at all. No chance of clogs.

Kal
I saw this on your site, and that's what i did. But I find that when I do this, I end up with a deep pool right underneath the end of the tube, caused by the trickle of wort squirting away grains. I have only used it twice and got about 85% efficiency, which works for me, but I always wonder, when most of the grain bed is 3 inches deep, and the grain bed directly under the end of the hose is only 1 inch deep, isn't wort going to preferentially go through the shallower part? I use a very slow recirc rate so it doesn't upset the grainbed much, but the result is that the recirculating wort drips straight down in a single location.

Am I doing this wrong? After seeing this, I had considered building a similar ring to the one built by Otter_bay_brewing.
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