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Old 01-13-2011, 04:40 PM   #1111
Layne
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Nice!

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Old 01-14-2011, 03:56 PM   #1112
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After 2 weeks of late nights, I am ready for my rig's inaugural brew this Sunday:



See the build thread over here:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/80-2...-stand-212840/

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Old 01-14-2011, 04:19 PM   #1113
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You're using a tankless water heater? I was wondering if anyone had tried that yet...

Mine only goes up to 160... So I thought maybe that was the reason I had not seen any incorporated into a brew set up...

Or do you heat it more after it goes through the water heater?

I was thinking about getting a 110v point of use instahot... so that I could use water tight out of the hose bib and not wait forever for the burner to heat a keggle full of water from near freezing.. But I'm gonna move my rig to my deck once I am finished screening it in this spring... at which time I can just extend hot and cold water from the kitchen via freeze proof Hose Bibs... So I'll just hoof hat water from the kitchen in buckets for three or four months until I make the move..

But anyways... Sweet looking set up.. Looks like you put a lot of thought and work into it...

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Old 01-14-2011, 04:33 PM   #1114
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Thanks,

No, in order to use a tankless heater like that, you have to completely gut it, there are so many safety features built in that you could never get 170° strike and sparge water out of it.

For strike water, I fill the MT to my desired volume, then recirculate through the heat exchanger to get to my strike temp. This way, I don't have to run it WOT (imagine a flame shooting out of the chimney). For sparge water, I run it WOT in order to even get by at 0.5 gal / minute at 170°.

A 110v tankless heater would never be be able to produce water at much more than a trickle, you really need >5000W to heat water at an appreciable speed.

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Old 01-14-2011, 04:39 PM   #1115
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My first all Grain "Milk Crate and Slate Rig".


Current contraption. No more weather issues.
Got the idea from this thread. Now I'm moving to sanke's, so I have to renovate my setup again. I'm sure this thread will be a help.
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:49 PM   #1116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulHilgeman View Post
Thanks,

No, in order to use a tankless heater like that, you have to completely gut it, there are so many safety features built in that you could never get 170° strike and sparge water out of it.

For strike water, I fill the MT to my desired volume, then recirculate through the heat exchanger to get to my strike temp. This way, I don't have to run it WOT (imagine a flame shooting out of the chimney). For sparge water, I run it WOT in order to even get by at 0.5 gal / minute at 170°.
What is "WOT"?

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A 110v tankless heater would never be be able to produce water at much more than a trickle, you really need >5000W to heat water at an appreciable speed.
Yeah, I was just going to use it to pre heat water from the spigot (which is around 33-34 degrees) to something in the 80-110 degree mark as is was being dumped into the HLT for heating with the burner..

But that's a moot point now.. As I will just wait until I move the rig, where I can then draw hot water from the kitchen.. and for that I have the tankless control set to 145 degrees... which makes heating to 170 a piece of cake.......

So for now, I'm just gonna fill buckets of water in the kitchen and carry them up the ladder and dump them in... Until I get a sight glass installed, that's the only way I have to measure how much water goes in anyways..
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Old 01-14-2011, 05:02 PM   #1117
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Wide Open Throttle (or in this case Needle Valve)

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Old 01-14-2011, 06:13 PM   #1118
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The old - made from scraps that I had in the garage the night before my first all-grain run.


The new (work in progress):



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Old 02-09-2011, 12:30 AM   #1119
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Where did you get the console from?

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Old 02-09-2011, 12:42 AM   #1120
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Where did you get the console from?
If you want to get an answer, you should probably specify the person's name you are asking the question.
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