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drakeskakes · 01-23-2013, 02:51 AM

I was wondering if anyone had a good resource on tutorials for using self leveling epoxy. I'm sure it's rather simple but I've seen some really bad examples on other peoples projects. I want it to be a "one and done" project.

I'm using joined wood for the deck of my keezer build and want to avoid any chances of liquid getting between the cracks and causing swelling.

Hopefully there is a few good write ups on it. I tried searching youtube but surprisingly, nothing popped up.

Thanks

acidrain · 01-23-2013, 05:04 AM

I have some experience in this... Use appropriate gloves, clothes, eye protection, etc.
Do this in a clean work area. The epoxy stays open a long time (24 hrs or more in most cases) so any dirt or dust that gets blown around is going to stick in it.
Get your table top, lid or whatever you're your project is perfectly level and suspended so that the edges are not touching anything, and sitting over some sacrificial drop cloths.
Mix the exact ratio by measuring "A" in one disposable measuring cup, "B" in a second one, and then pour both together into a third.
Stir well, but slowly to avoid air bubbles. Scrape the sides and bottom many times when stirring.
Pour into a fourth pot, and stir some more.
Slowly pour mixed epoxy onto the project starting in the middle working the puddle outward towards the edges, but always pouring into the established puddle.
Use a bondo spreader to move the puddle around if needed (use a light touch). the puddle should be running off the edge now... make sure the edges are all wetted out.
Once the epoxy is spread evenly, use a propane torch to pop any bubbles with a quick sweeping motion over the surface. Make sure all the bubbles get popped.
Cure at the appropriate temp.
Once it's fully cured, you can sand off the drippy edges.
The epoxy can be sanded and polished if you have the right equipment.
Good luck!

drakeskakes · 01-23-2013, 05:20 AM

Thank you for the detailed information. That post helped a lot. My only question is the "Don't be touching anything"

I was planning on using it for the lid of the keezer. I was going to put the wood down and have an 1/8th lip from the wood to the top of the border a, creating a "sandbox" like structure. Just instead of sand, it's wood panel
Should I epoxy it first, then put the outer edges on the board?

vike4life · 01-23-2013, 12:49 PM

Drake, I am also in the process of making an epoxy counter-top for the bar I am installing in my basement. I will be making a wood mold, then placing wine corks in the mold then pouring the epoxy over the top of it.

Let me know how yours goes.

**Hang Glider** · 01-23-2013, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vike4life

... I will be making a wood mold, then placing wine corks in the mold then pouring the epoxy over the top of it...

the corks will float - you may want to do a thin coat and place the corks while wet, then cover with another coat after the first coat dries and holds the corks down.

acidrain · 01-23-2013, 06:01 PM

Yeah, if you've formed a lip to hold the epoxy in, then just work up to it.
Get it perfectly level though... it will run over the edge if not, or at least it would be thicker on one edge.

**NivekD** · 01-23-2013, 06:09 PM

I've used EnviroTex Lite for several projects and love the stuff...

http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/

vike4life · 01-23-2013, 06:43 PM

Hang Glider,

I left out that i was going to be using wood glue to glue down the corks. Do you think wood glue will work? or should I go with something else?

**patthebrewer** · 01-23-2013, 09:07 PM

Or just hot glue the cork down, and pour over them.

**Hang Glider** · 01-24-2013, 02:01 AM

yep - just as long as they're held down so they don't work their way up to the surface.

pictures as you build? or when done?
we wanna see this!