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Old 02-23-2008, 04:51 AM   #1
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Default Sanke MLT stainless braid

I've been talking about my plans and I finally had a free night to make it happen.

I plan to recirculate my mash because I'm direct firing. I suspect the only way to keep it flowing might be to use a false bottom but I wanted to try this out first.
I picked up a 1" diameter x 18" long stainless braided hose meant for water heater connections and did the usual disassembly to extract the innards.

I installed a 1/2" MPT to 5/8" tubing compression fitting into my MLT's bulkhead and then mocked up the various fittings to get it to lay flat on the bottom. Then I soldered it up.



Next, I drilled holes in the bottom of the piece that sits at the very bottom concave of the keg.


I made a coil from some 16gauge stainless wire and slipped it on. This is going to keep the braid from making direct contact with the pipe which would block off some of the open area. I want every hole in the braid flowing and able to drip the goods down to the pickup area.



I finally fed the braid over the tube, wrapped the ends with some teflon tape to keep the fraying under control while I hose clamped the ends.


In case it's not clear how I expect this to work; the entire braid is sitting flat on the bottom of the keg. Sweet wort will flow into the holes in the braid and make it's way down to the lowest point where the holes are drilled in the pipe. Siphon will pull it through the pipe and out the bulkhead...Weeeeee. This is just like the cooler based MLT "filter" only it's sitting over the dip tube of sorts so it won't get knocked around much.

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Old 03-06-2008, 04:33 PM   #2
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Just saw this thread, Bobby -- that's a really neat idea! I'll be curious to hear how it works.

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Old 03-06-2008, 04:48 PM   #3
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Yeah, I'm curious too. I'll probably get the first run in by early April, maybe a little sooner.

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Old 03-06-2008, 05:41 PM   #4
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Oh, and I'm picking my my keg from the welder tomorrow, and will be installing your stainless dip tube fitting and sight glass this weekend. I'm excited!

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Old 03-06-2008, 05:45 PM   #5
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If oyu have any doubts if that is going to work, don't worry, it will. I don't have the copper inside mine, but I have the stainless spring inside the SS sleeve and it works awesome.

One question, will that teflon tape hold up? Will it affect off-flavors or anything? I know star-san doesn't really ever touch the boil kettle, but some cleaning agents may break that teflon down considerably. I know Star-san will eat through that stuff like nothing.

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Old 03-06-2008, 08:21 PM   #6
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Hmm, good point. I was being overly careful not to start fraying the ends of the braids but I could easily take the tape off. In fact, I soldered the end cap on and then realized cleaning the inside of that pipe once in a while might be nice. I think I'll use a threaded cap or plug instead. Off to Lowes again.

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Old 03-10-2008, 09:46 PM   #7
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Sweet. I am planning something very similar (but much shorter) for my MT drain/steam injection manifold. I may not need it for steam diffusion though since I have a false bottom and plan to stir while steaming, but just in case I would like it there. It would be nice to keep the littler grain pieces out during vorlauf and transfer to kettle as well. Very cool install Bobby_M. I like the SS compression fittings.

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Old 03-10-2008, 10:05 PM   #8
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I don't think you would even need the ss screen over the pipe. None of us guys using MLT manifolds have any issues

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Old 03-10-2008, 10:23 PM   #9
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This isn't exactly a manifold though, it's just a pipe. I don't think I have enough locations/surface area for slotting or drilling, at least not enough in the part that is low in the valley of the keg. The braid allows for separate up higher than the lowest pickup point, but doesn't lose siphon. This is all in theory, I haven't tested it yet.

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Old 03-11-2008, 01:07 AM   #10
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Bobby,

That's pretty cool. Don't worry about the Teflon, it is inert below about 500 deg F. (Dude, are you sure it was the Starsan? It would take some really nasty , nearly unobtainable acids to even etch the stuff. It is however in tape form very fragile and tears easily.) I would take a close look at your hose clamps. I had a nasty surprise with a small stainless steel hose clamp. The band was stainless, but the screw turned out to be plated non-stainless steel. It rusted the first time I dunked it in Oxyclean.

I'm going to try something similar, but I was thinking of running the manifold around the perimeter, to take advantage of whirlpooling the cold break and hops to the center of the kettle.

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