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11-26-2012, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Staten island, Ny
Posts: 125
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Sanke Conical Project
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Hey guys so I've been dying to convert one of my sankes to a conical fermenter. I currently just us them right side up and a airlock + stopper combo. My plan thus far is to flip the sanke upside down, attached legs to it, and then drill in a hole in the top big enough for an input and airlock + stopper.
I have a 2" triclamp concentric reducer to 1.5" then a 90 degree triclamp elbow into a ball valve.
Nothing is set in stone right now I am hoping to get some creative discussion from HBTers. One topic I want to discuss is how should I do the top of the sanke? Should i cut a larger opening and then leave a glass lid with an air lock?
What is the best way to do transfers? I know gravity isn't going to be sufficient so I need to figure out a way to do CO2 transfers.
Just got my order in the mail from brewershardware.com so I'll attach a few pics of what I have so far.
Also I attached pictures of the legs that I will be constructing.
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11-26-2012, 08:46 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort collins, CO
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I would not go with a large hole for the top if you want to be able to transfer under CO2 pressure. I would go for a whole sized for one of the commonly available stopper sizes, that would be a little easier to maintain a seal on under 1-2 PSI of CO2.
I do have to say though, I don't see the advantage, unless you could add a racking port, or the lid had a steep enough angle to all you to dump yeast/trub.
I may just be missing something here though so feel free to enlighten me.
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11-26-2012, 09:03 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Staten island, Ny
Posts: 125
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Well I haven't thought of all the advantages as of yet. This is initially an ease of use/aesthetic project. Also, I wanted to be able to dump the yeast easier before racking. And with the proper co2 setup can easily transfer to other sankes for conditioning. A racking arm would be ideal but right now a stretch. This project is in its infancy but I love to think about all the possible sanke conversions.
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11-26-2012, 10:36 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: BF, NC
Posts: 46
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Dr. Phil, I also have a Sanke that I am wanting to convert to a fermenter. I am planning to install a faucet as low as possible on the side of the keg to rack into kegs without disturbing the yeast/trub. Then open the bottom faucet to harvest the yeast for reuse. I have also decided to make the hole in the top large so I can get in and clean it effectively. I am currently using glass carboys and looking forward to getting away from them. The only thing I will miss is watching that great fermentation action in those glass caboys. (I do like that part.)
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11-27-2012, 12:35 AM
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#5
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Yeast Welfare Technician
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Not to burst any bubbles, but if you want a conical so you can dump trub/collect yeast, this isn't getting it done. You need a 60 degree slope (or at least close) or else your trub won't slide down to the port.
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11-27-2012, 06:58 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Brewtown, WI
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I hate to rain on the DIY parade here as well, but that valve/TC combo isnt going to cut it. I bought the nice fancy 1.5" Butterfly valve from BrewersHardware.com and even then I have issues getting the yeast to dump sometimes. Your pics look like you have the 1.5" TC elbow reduced to 1/2" Ball Valve. I would be extremely surprised if you got any flow once the yeast starts to settle.
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11-27-2012, 07:18 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Papamoa, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daksin
Not to burst any bubbles, but if you want a conical so you can dump trub/collect yeast, this isn't getting it done. You need a 60 degree slope (or at least close) or else your trub won't slide down to the port.
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I actually read that 45° is enough, and the 60° was a throughback from when they first were developed and based off normal silo/hoppers for dry powders. But I agree, you want at least some sort of a cone to collect the yeast otherwise you will pull only the middle part and leave a lot behind. Just think about when you open up a corney once it is finished, I usually get pretty clear beer all the way to the end (no cut dip tunes or anything) but when I look inside the bottom is caked in sediment except a tiny area around the dip tube.
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11-28-2012, 04:42 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
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Location: BF, NC
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Bummer.
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11-28-2012, 07:21 PM
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#9
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Staten island, Ny
Posts: 125
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Boo! Well I had the TC parts lying around and thought I could do something interesting with them. Going to go through with the project anyways and see how it turns out. I appreciate the feedback and information. If it isn't successful I will turn it into a bottom drain MLT.
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11-28-2012, 09:49 PM
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#10
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 3,550
Liked 31 Times on 26 Posts Likes Given: 7
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Don't cut it before you read THIS. Unless you're specifically using the keg as a bottom drain vessel, you're going to waste a perfectly good fermenter.
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