erikrocks

Recipes 

So, basically, I inserted a two wire toggle switch between the element and the SSR so that I could plug the control box in without worrying about burning the element out--so I can start the recirculation and then flip on the power to the element.

For some reason, though, there's no power going to the element when I flip the switch on and attempt to autotune the PID. I'm wondering if there's an error in my wiring that I'm missing.

Here's my wiring diagram (modified from SawDustGuy's RIMS For Dummies):



Thanks everyone.

Reelale

Recipes 

I can't find the manual for that exact model number, but it looks like on the 2362, the AC in is terminal 1 and 2 on the PID. You show terminal 2 and 3. Just spit ballin' here.

erikrocks

Recipes 

I just double checked--I labeled my diagram wrong. My neutral is connected to the 1 and hot to the 2 on the PID.

For clarification's sake, my PID turns on but the element doesn't.

Reelale

Recipes 

Your wiring looks ok to me. Remember too, that until you set the PID past a set point for it to activate, there will be no signal to the SSR and no power to the element. You can check that with a multi-meter from the PID output, you should be getting ~ 8 VDC from terminals 6 and 7. If your not getting the output voltage, it's in the PID programming.

Is the polarity correct on 6 (positive) and 7 (negative)?

erikrocks

Recipes 

Polarity's correct.

I currently have the PID set to 62* and my water is 51*. So shouldn't the element turn on?

Also, doesn't autotune override the set points in order to generate parameters?

Reelale

Recipes 

Yes, it should activate the element if the hysteresis is not too far off. Try bumping it up to about 95 and see what happens.

I believe autotune does override everything.

I have to ask: did you test with a light bulb instead of an element or use a multimeter to determine continuity and/or switch functions? I would troubleshoot by eliminating the PID from the circuit first. Then double check your programming parameters in the PID itself. I can't see anything in your wiring that would cause the element to not energize.

erikrocks

Recipes 

I touched my light bulb "tester" neutral and hot to the N and H element screws and no light. I then bypassed the toggle switch and did the same and, again, no light.

Are the screws on the element neutral/hot specific?

Reelale

Recipes 

No. Polarity doesn't matter there. Try your light from the hot and neutral line directly. I know it sounds stupid, but bulbs do burn-out. I take it you don't have a meter?

erikrocks

Recipes 

I don't have a meter. I'll do a few more light bulb tests. THanks.

Reelale

Recipes 

Yes. A meter makes life a lot easier, and they are pretty cheap. But, you have to work with what you have at hand. IMO, the key to effective troubleshooting is to eliminate parts of the circuit until you isolate the cause. I would check your circuit and switches by eliminating the PID. I have a sneaking suspicion that is your problem. Auber tech support is really good too, they'll walk you through the process for programming. Good luck.