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**rpryor** · 01-22-2013, 01:44 PM

Just somewhat finished my RIMS and Pump in a cheapo Lowe's toolbox.

I used the following schematic from one of the other threads I have found:

I tested out the pump last night which worked like a dream until i forgot to clamp down the hose and the water went all over the bathroom floor. Hopefully get to test the RIMS tube later today to make sure everything works out ok!

PS - Thanks to the instigators in the RIMS for dummies I ended up investing into the brewershardware's 1.5 Tri-Clamp Rims tube. A lot more money than the stainless fittings but damn it is nice! Post shots of that later.

**patthebrewer** · 01-22-2013, 03:11 PM

Wow!

**tlb2525** · 01-22-2013, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rpryor

Just somewhat finished my RIMS and Pump in a cheapo Lowe's toolbox.

I used the following schematic from one of the other threads I have found:

I tested out the pump last night which worked like a dream until i forgot to clamp down the hose and the water went all over the bathroom floor. Hopefully get to test the RIMS tube later today to make sure everything works out ok!

PS - Thanks to the instigators in the RIMS for dummies I ended up investing into the brewershardware's 1.5 Tri-Clamp Rims tube. A lot more money than the stainless fittings but damn it is nice! Post shots of that later.

I like your setup. I also purchased a RIMS tube from Brewer's Hardware. When I got it I wanted to mount it on the wall on a plaque because it truly is a work of art, but I put it to use anyway. I used a heater rated at 240v, 4500 watts. At 120 volts, is reduces the wattage by a factor of 4, so 1125 watts. One thing you may want to do is to install a magnetic flow switch on the outlet of the RIMS tube connected to the output of the PID. That way if your flow slows down sufficiently, while still running the pump, the heating element will shut down. I found out the hard way. You can get the switch off Ebay for about $20.00.

whatdyisit · 01-22-2013, 04:02 PM

Very nice!

**rpryor** · 01-22-2013, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tlb2525

I used a heater rated at 240v, 4500 watts. At 120 volts, is reduces the wattage by a factor of 4, so 1125 watts.

Have the same thing. I was worried about using it because I believe it is like 13" long and ordered the element before the rims tube. Luckily it showed plenty of clearance.

I think I will try it out before getting much more involved with a float switch. Have yet to have a stuck sparge but then again this is the first time using a pump, so knock on wood that will not happen.

**rpryor** · 01-23-2013, 01:50 AM

And the most impressive part of the build is the brewers hardware's 1.5 Tri-Clamp RIMS Tube with Auberins RTD with the same setup as seen on theelectricbrewery.com.

Finally tested out the RIMs tube tonight and it seemed to work great. I was actually thinking about adding another light to show whenever the element is actually energized.

Next up is to figure out how to mount the tube to the cheap toolbox for better portability. Also have to finish my hop stopper and counter flow chiller and than ready to kick off another brew.

Mtn_Brewer · 01-23-2013, 02:08 AM

It appears that the power to the box is coming from a hot male plug to a female receptacle on the box. If this is the case, you may want to rethink that. A hot male plug can be very dangerous. If it accidentally falls out, you basically have an exposed down power line that undoubtably will come in contact with your metal brewstand or the puddle of water you are standing in.

**reynolds5520** · 01-23-2013, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mtn_Brewer

It appears that the power to the box is coming from a hot male plug to a female receptacle on the box. If this is the case, you may want to rethink that. A hot male plug can be very dangerous.

Good eye Mtn_Brewer, I missed that in the pictures.

Your power cord is what is known as a SUICIDE CORD!

Swap your input receptacle to a L10-20P with mounting flange. Edit - I originally typed L14-20P - that is a 4 wire plug, it will work.

Here is a L10-20P Flanged on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leviton-2365-20-Amp-125-250-Volt-NEMA-L10-20P-3P-3W-Flanged-Inlet-Locking-R-/290761956187?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b2c3 5b5b

Here is a L14-20P Flanged on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVITON-2415-20-AMP-125-250-VOLT-L14-20P-FLANGED-INLET-HBL2415-/290630002601?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43aae5 e7a9

Even if you have a GFCI at the source, it is still easy to kill yourself or start a fire with that suicide cord. If your body comes in contact with the hot and neutral, you get the hit and the GFCI just sees it as a proper load on the circuit.

**rpryor** · 01-23-2013, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reynolds5520

Even if you have a GFCI at the source, it is still easy to kill yourself or start a fire with that suicide cord. If your body comes in contact with the hot and neutral, you get the hit and the GFCI just sees it as a proper load on the circuit.

I was not even thinking about other situations such as those. Just making sure it was GFCI protected. Thank you Mtn_Brewer for catching that before I put it to use. Thanks for the links reynolds5520.

**rpryor** · 01-23-2013, 05:42 PM

Would it be possible to use the same inlet as used in theelectricbrewery.com and only use 3 of the 4; hook up line, neutral, and ground; leave line2 disconnected? Only reason I ask is because I know down the road I want to do a very similar setup and do not want to purchase a 20 amp inlet that will eventually get tossed for a 30 amp one.

Leviton 2715 30-Amp, 125/250 Volt, Flanged Inlet Locking Receptacle, Industrial Grade, Grounding, White
Leviton 2713 30 Amp, 125/250 Volt, NEMA L14-30R, 3P, 4W, Locking Connector, Industrial Grade, Grounding - Black-White