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Old 04-02-2013, 03:55 PM   #11
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So the wort from the mash tun is mixed with fresh water from the tap before hitting the RIMS tube? If I'm understanding this correctly I would have to add all my sparge water before emptying the MLT because I can't drain the MLT at the same time I'm mixing, correct?
Not really mixing the existing wort with the fresh water. He has fresh water come in the Rims tube, get warmed up, then exit, and part goes into the kettle, while part goes into a pump, which puts it right back into the rims tube with the fresh water. The idea is that the element has lots of water flowing over it, but only a little fresh cold water being added, and the same amount of hot water exiting the loop.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-build-129646/
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:08 PM   #12
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I bought a 4500w lwd element and replaced the 5500w ulwd element. I figured for $11 shipped it was the cheapest option to try. So far in my testing at .25 gpm the water heating inline would not reach boiling. It would reach the 190s after 30 minutes or so but I will only be sparging for approximately 20 minutes. I have a brew lined up this weekend so I'll report back after an actual brew day.

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Old 04-10-2013, 01:39 AM   #13
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I have a 2000w 120v element. But, I heat my sparge water in my HLT to about 150 to 160. The tube just bumps it up to 168 and holds the temp pretty well.

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Old 04-11-2013, 06:21 PM   #14
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sounds like we are having the same exact problem, at the same time. My RIMS looks exactly like yours, except in tri-clamp form. Probe placement and in/outlets.

we had a eureka moment this morning, and I am dying to test it out. WHAT IF I could reverse the outlet section of the tube so that the sensor is in the middle of the tube, very close to the heating element? so then, there is no delay from the element heat to the sensor, like you have in your tube. for me, this is not a problem because the probe will not protrude into the element leads at all.

to visualize this scenario, visit the brewershardware.com rims tube section. the main page has a disassembled view of how i currently have it configured. i plan on swapping the right side of the tube, so that the tri clamp is in the center, and have the outlet be at the new end of the tube.

https://www.brewershardware.com/images/RIMS15.jpg

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Old 04-12-2013, 04:01 PM   #15
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sounds like we are having the same exact problem, at the same time. My RIMS looks exactly like yours, except in tri-clamp form. Probe placement and in/outlets.

we had a eureka moment this morning, and I am dying to test it out. WHAT IF I could reverse the outlet section of the tube so that the sensor is in the middle of the tube, very close to the heating element? so then, there is no delay from the element heat to the sensor, like you have in your tube. for me, this is not a problem because the probe will not protrude into the element leads at all.

to visualize this scenario, visit the brewershardware.com rims tube section. the main page has a disassembled view of how i currently have it configured. i plan on swapping the right side of the tube, so that the tri clamp is in the center, and have the outlet be at the new end of the tube.

https://www.brewershardware.com/images/RIMS15.jpg
I think there would still be temperature swings but having the probe closer to the element will make them smaller. The problem is when the element is on at 5500w with .25 gpm the water heats up beyond your set point so the element is turned off. Cold water starts filling the tube until it reaches the probe turning the element back on but at this point you have x number of inches of cold water that was only heated from the heat exchange in the tube.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:33 PM   #16
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The problem here is not related to your input water pressure fluctuations. I would suggest installing a flowmeter, so that you can monitor the rate of flow. Using this, you could figure out a rise in temperature per rate of flow. Something along the lines of - degrees per minute per gallon per minute, or degrees per gallon. It would be an inverse relationship - where you might get a rise of 5 degrees per gallon, which would mean that 1 gpm gives you 5deg/min and 5 gpm gets 1 deg/min. Once you've figured out these relationships, you just dial in your flow rate, and let it go.

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Old 04-12-2013, 05:13 PM   #17
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I also apparently should have installed a ball valve on the RIMS outlet, to regulate the flow. i will be trying a butterfly valve as i am just fresh out of on-hand tri clamp ball valves. i was able to get the temperature on sparge between 161-169 by relocating the probe midway through the tube, and basically on top of the element. i imagine that when i am able to actually regulate the flow on the outlet of the rims with a ball valve, the swings will go away entirely.

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Old 04-13-2013, 03:41 PM   #18
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I had success this morning running a water test for mashing and sparging with the same PID values after:

1. Relocating temperature probe to the middle of the tube.
2. Changing my fresh water source to a lower flow spigot.
3. Placing a valve on the outlet of the RIMS tube.
4. Tinkering with the valve on the outlet of the RIMS tube and the water-in shutoff valves on my manifold.

For reference (although your system will be different), my PID values for P,I,D were:

I=265
P=14
d=25

Hope this helps.

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Old 04-15-2013, 02:17 PM   #19
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So after changing the element from a 5500w to a 4500w I recalibrated the PID using the auto tune feature and this eliminated the temperature swings!

When doing the auto tune I put the system (valves) in sparge mode, set my gpm to .25, and set the set point on the PID to 180*F. Once the temp reached 180*F I started the auto tune by switching At=2 and let it run until it stopped flashing on its own. During this time there where huge swings (130*F - 186*F). After the auto tune completed the swings were (176*F to 182*F) which is good for my purposes. I'm happy to report Saturday was a great brew day with no issues!

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Old 04-15-2013, 02:32 PM   #20
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So after changing the element from a 5500w to a 4500w I recalibrated the PID using the auto tune feature and this eliminated the temperature swings!

When doing the auto tune I put the system (valves) in sparge mode, set my gpm to .25, and set the set point on the PID to 180*F. Once the temp reached 180*F I started the auto tune by switching At=2 and let it run until it stopped flashing on its own. During this time there where huge swings (130*F - 186*F). After the auto tune completed the swings were (176*F to 182*F) which is good for my purposes. I'm happy to report Saturday was a great brew day with no issues!
One more thing, I'm not sure I needed to lower the wattage of the element and I didn't see the need to switch it back to a 5500w to find out since everything works smoothly at this point.
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