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Old 02-02-2012, 02:37 AM   #901
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what's the best way to ground the two wire heating element

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Old 02-04-2012, 04:00 PM   #902
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Back to the top

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Old 02-06-2012, 04:13 PM   #903
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I had a few technical questions and since this thread is MASSIVE. I figure someone can help me long before I find it.

1. What does the PID control exactly? The pump or the element? Is the one that isn't controlled on all the time?
2. How do you clean the inside of your RIMS tube (I'd rather not spend 150+ on a Triclover version)
3. How do you prevent overly compacted grainbeds? I figure you need to have the valves open full force to keep things from catching fire and whatnot.
4. With so much water flow how do you prevent channeling? Again, I feel like the grainbed will be very uneven (maybe this doesn't matter with a false bottom)
5. If someone could direct me towards a nice simple cheapo 120v cheapo style toolbox build I'd really appreciate it.

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Old 02-06-2012, 09:29 PM   #904
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:58 AM   #905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundercougarfalconbird View Post
I had a few technical questions and since this thread is MASSIVE. I figure someone can help me long before I find it.

1. What does the PID control exactly? The pump or the element? Is the one that isn't controlled on all the time?
The PID controls the heating element. The pump runs for the duration of the mash.

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2. How do you clean the inside of your RIMS tube (I'd rather not spend 150+ on a Triclover version)
These are easily cleaned at the end of the mash by recirculating a PBW solution through it. Hot PBW performs better. I run it up to 130*F.

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3. How do you prevent overly compacted grainbeds? I figure you need to have the valves open full force to keep things from catching fire and whatnot.
Compacted grain beds can be controlled by limiting pump throughput and by using rice hulls. Rice hulls keep the mash loose and prevent compaction. The valves do not need to be fully open. I run mine about 35-40% open. If the mash gets stuck and there is no flow through the tube, then the wort will heat up and the temperature probe/PID will not allow the temperature to go over the set point on the PID. It will heat up rather quickly though given the small volume of liquid in the tube. The heater element should be of a extra or ultra low density type - <50 watts / square inch of element surface area. These have not been known to scorch wort.

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4. With so much water flow how do you prevent channeling? Again, I feel like the grainbed will be very uneven (maybe this doesn't matter with a false bottom)
I have simply laid the hose on the top of the grain bed and for a 30 lb grain bill I have not had serious channeling. Several folks will sprinkle the wort on to the grain bed with a circular tube that has lots of holes drilled in it. Similar to a mash tun manifold.

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5. If someone could direct me towards a nice simple cheapo 120v cheapo style toolbox build I'd really appreciate it.
I've seen some folks do this with the toolbox RIMS systems. Search for that and you'll find what you're looking for.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:28 PM   #906
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I have a Kal style sparge hose in my tun, it seems like my grainbed is very uneven after recirculation. Perhaps I'm running my pump too fast?

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Old 02-12-2012, 07:16 PM   #907
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Has anyone used the following eBay components? Looks like I can save a lot of coin, but I am always reminded of the age old adage "you get what you pay for"

1. PID - $28 delivered (eBay Link)
2. SSR + Heatsink - $12 delivered (eBay Link)
3. Thermocouple - $10 plus Shipping (eBay Link)

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Old 02-12-2012, 07:55 PM   #908
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How wide is everyone elements? Can I fit one in a keg dip tube?

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Old 02-12-2012, 09:38 PM   #909
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You can fit an immersion element in a keg with a diptube, you cannot fit the element inside the diptube itself. You could fit a thermocouple probe in a diptube, but it would cause a serious restriction and give you nothing but headaches.

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Old 02-12-2012, 10:18 PM   #910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klyph
You can fit an immersion element in a keg with a diptube, you cannot fit the element inside the diptube itself. You could fit a thermocouple probe in a diptube, but it would cause a serious restriction and give you nothing but headaches.
Bummer. Trying to find something to do with these dip tubes lol
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