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GuitarLord5000 · 07-31-2011, 05:32 PM

I'm planning on building one of these soon. I'll be getting the tri clover tube from Brewers Handware and using a 1500 watt 120v element. I already have two of these auber PIDs that I was planning on using in a direct fire RIMS:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_ id=14
I'm going to repurpose them for this application and will upgrade my direct fire RIMS with larger PIDs when it comes time to build it. The direct fire RIMS will be used for bigger 15 gallon batches, but I like that the tube allows me to brew smaller 5 gallon batches in the house. That's nice in this hot Louisiana weather!

I haven't used SSRs before. Could I use this one for my application?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400177630068

It's a 40 amp, instead of a 25 amp, but I'm guessing that won't make a difference for this build. All the rest of the specs seem to be in order. I feel pretty confident that it'll work, but I'd feel better if someone else gave it a nod.

pola0502ds · 08-01-2011, 11:55 AM

Do you know alot about PIDS or any of the other components you are going to use?

From the sounds of it you don't.. Take my advice, use the pid and other components that most of us have used. If you don't, most of us can't answer your questions. Some can.

I built a nice system like what you are trying to do but i didn't use the components you want to use.

Do whatever you want but i ran into this situation and I returned a bunch of stuff so i could get the advice..

GuitarLord5000 · 08-08-2011, 03:10 AM

Thanks for the advice, but since I already have the PIDs in question, I'd rather use them if at all possible. Looking at the instruction manual here:
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction%201.0.pdf
I see that terminals 9 and 10 can be used for SSR control. The J1 relay on terminals 4 and 5 can be configured as either a high or low alarm when the SSR control option is being used. Terminals 6, 7, and 8, will be used for the RTD probes that I own.
The only real question I have at this point (I'm sure I will think of more later) is about using the Low alarm relay to shut down the heating element.
In order to use the Low alarm to shut down the heating element, I would route the PID's SSR + out to the J1 relay at terminal 4, then attach the other end of the relay (terminal 5) to the SSR +?

See attachment below.

pola0502ds · 08-09-2011, 03:18 PM

I can't help you there. I don't use any of the alarms on my pid. I just set the target temp and it has a +1 -1 degree swing. Works perfect.

Coldies · 08-09-2011, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pola0502ds

I can't help you there. I don't use any of the alarms on my pid. I just set the target temp and it has a +1 -1 degree swing. Works perfect.

Same here. When you use your RIMS for the first time you will know what your differential is as far as heat loss goes also. On my system it is about a 1 - 1.5 degree differential in heat loss. So if I want to mash at 156 I will set the PID for 157.5 and walk away and have a beer

c12h22o11dude · 08-09-2011, 09:49 PM

I just completed my rims with this same set-up and brewed two beers on Sunday. Works great. The only modification I made was I put a switched receptacle in the box for the march pump. I can flip the pump on and off right on the control box.
More importantly I wired the heating element that it can only get power if the pump is on. No pump=no heat=no scortching.
Just cuase i was scared lol

GuitarLord5000 · 08-09-2011, 09:56 PM

Cool! So you used the low alarm as an element shutdown? It was wired like in the attachment?

Here's the entire layout I intend to use. It allows me to use the march pump without having to energize the entire panel. It's wired so that the element can't come on unless the march pump is engaged. It also has a switch just for the element as an emergency shutdown. The element switch isn't really necessary as the on/off switch and march pump switch would both switch off the element in case of an emergency, but I felt the need to balance the aesthetics of the panel with a third switch.

pola0502ds · 08-10-2011, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c12h22o11dude

I just completed my rims with this same set-up and brewed two beers on Sunday. Works great. The only modification I made was I put a switched receptacle in the box for the march pump. I can flip the pump on and off right on the control box.
More importantly I wired the heating element that it can only get power if the pump is on. No pump=no heat=no scortching.
Just cuase i was scared lol

yeah, i really need to do this. Can you tell me how you did it?

It is so important to do this, I can't tell you how many times already i needed this feature. A few times I would turn off the pump for whatever reason and a few minutes later a light bulb goes off and i say oh sh!t the element is still on!

pola0502ds · 08-10-2011, 02:39 PM

DO you basically make the pump wiring inline with the element wiring so when you turn the switch it completes the loop giving it power?

GuitarLord5000 · 08-10-2011, 03:02 PM

You need a DPST switch to do what you want. The Pump Switch on my diagram below is wired so that the element can't come on as long as the pump is not engaged. One pole of the DPST will switch power to the pump, the other pole will be used to switch power from the SSR to the heating element. When the switch is open, no power is going to the pump, and the SSR is no longer connected to the element. When the switch is closed, the pump and element are both engaged. Just make sure that the switch you use is rated for the amount of amps your element will draw. The switches I'll be using in my panel are rated for 125v and 20 amps:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/STS-59/DPST-ON-OFF-HEAVY-DUTY-TOGGLE-SWITCH/1.html