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**Veritas** · 02-14-2011, 03:20 AM

That's a good point; flow rate and thick mash could be an issue. I'm just surprised that nobody else is experiencing my dilemma.

I'll bump up my flow rate on my next batch, and disassemble my RIMS afterwards and check for scorching. Do you see any risks in increasing my flow rate? (other than a stuck mash...)

Reelale · 02-14-2011, 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Veritas

I use a cpvc manifold on the bottom of my igloo cooler mashtun, through the march pump, through the RIMS tube, and back into the top of the cooler. The wort then travels down some hose to an "upturned" recirculating "X" made of cpvc and upturned elbows, allowing the wort to flow "up and out" back onto the bed. Maybe I'll try increasing the flow rate, now that I have a brand spankin' new element from Lowes. (a 4500 ld that I'll run at 110v. I fits in my RIMS with about an inch to spare between it and the RTD.)

Any other thoughts?

Just the difference in thickness of mash. Probably shouldn't be an issue though with a good flow. Good luck.

**Veritas** · 02-14-2011, 03:31 AM

Thanks... BTW, I'm still new to brewing; how is your efficiency with the "no sparge" method? I know this is a little off topic, but are you just mashing out and then going straight to the BK? Sounds like a real time saver...

klyph · 02-14-2011, 03:31 AM

Are you sure that the RIMS tube isn't trapping an air bubble allowing the wort to scorch the element? I noticed a remarkably smoother flow after placing both my in and out facing up to allow the RIMS tube to fill completely.

**Veritas** · 02-14-2011, 03:34 AM

Hey Kylph, I wondered about air bubbles, too. My system is oriented with both the intake and outlet facing up. Everything seems to be running smooth; no air bubbles, no foam in the lines... check out the link to my pics. Is this how you have yours set up?

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/thank-you-all-making-my-first-ag-brew-day-success-212499/

Reelale · 02-14-2011, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Veritas

Thanks... BTW, I'm still new to brewing; how is your efficiency with the "no sparge" method? I know this is a little off topic, but are you just mashing out and then going straight to the BK? Sounds like a real time saver...

I'm now getting around 67-68% brewhouse efficiency. I'm saving some time omitting the sparge, but the real saver is being able to start the boil while my 1st and only runnings are draining into the BK. And it only requires 2 vessels

**Veritas** · 02-14-2011, 03:47 AM

Good point. I'm going to give that a try. How long does it take to transfer your "first and only runnings" to the BK? (assuming you're doing 5 gal batches.)

**Veritas** · 02-14-2011, 03:49 AM

(I promise to get back "on thread" after this...)

Just for clarity; (as an example) if you are doing a simple pale ale; would you dough in, bring your system up to temp, say 153, recirculate for an hour, bump up to 168 to mash out for 10, then transfer? I really want to try this... Sounds promising...

Reelale · 02-14-2011, 04:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Veritas

Good point. I'm going to give that a try. How long does it take to transfer your "first and only runnings" to the BK? (assuming you're doing 5 gal batches.)

Probably on the order of 5 minutes or so. There is already some wort in the BK so I start heating that while the rest is draining.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Veritas

(I promise to get back "on thread" after this...)

Just for clarity; (as an example) if you are doing a simple pale ale; would you dough in, bring your system up to temp, say 153, recirculate for an hour, bump up to 168 to mash out for 10, then transfer? I really want to try this... Sounds promising...

Yep, I heat strike water with a burner and dough-in, set the RIMS for the mash temperature and sit back and watch the pretty lights. I usually don't bother with a mash-out. When I have done it, I used the burner to increase temp., because it takes too long with a 110vac element. It would probably increase my efficiency some, but I don't see the need. I just add an extra pound of grain to make up for reduced efficiency. Recirculate/mash for 1 hour, drain, and boil. It's pretty stress-free.

Here's a great thread on the process.http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/i-love-no-sparge-brewing-140972/

**Veritas** · 02-14-2011, 04:12 AM

Outstanding. If you're getting decent efficiency, saving all of that time, and going straight to the boil from the mashtun, I'm in.

Of course, I'll tell my SWMBO that it's "brewing as usual," which will give me an extra hour of hanging with my brew pals and drinking an extra homebrew or two.

(Is that wrong?)

Thanks for the help...