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Old 12-03-2010, 08:11 PM   #531
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What don't you like about HERMS?

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Old 12-03-2010, 08:23 PM   #532
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Just not the direction I wanted to go.

Plus I may have more temperature control using RIMS...the last time I brewed my temps were not hit and this is a regular occurance. Too much heat loss, then over shooting the temp, etc. It looks like for what I want to accomplish, RIMS is the way for me to go.

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Old 12-05-2010, 03:14 PM   #533
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Ok so I am in the process of upgrading my system. I was set on doing direct fire resirc like the brutus. After reading this thread I have some questions.

1. Do you use your burner to heat up your initial strike water to mash in, and then use your rims tube while you are resirculating to maintain mash temp?

2. Do you heat your sparge in your HLT and then use the Rims tube to keep the constant temp?

3. "Stainless steel RIMS tube with extra low density 120V 1500W element" is this for a basic 110 outlet?

Sorry not an electricity guy. If I understand this right then this seem seasier than buying asco valves and pilot lights to do direct fire.

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Old 12-05-2010, 03:23 PM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldogxray View Post
Ok so I am in the process of upgrading my system. I was set on doing direct fire resirc like the brutus. After reading this thread I have some questions.

1. Do you use your burner to heat up your initial strike water to mash in, and then use your rims tube while you are resirculating to maintain mash temp?

2. Do you heat your sparge in your HLT and then use the Rims tube to keep the constant temp?

3. "Stainless steel RIMS tube with extra low density 120V 1500W element" is this for a basic 110 outlet?

Sorry not an electricity guy. If I understand this right then this seem seasier than buying asco valves and pilot lights to do direct fire.
1 & 2. I will heat strike and sparge water with propane burner and use the RIMS tube to keep the temp. Since I'm powering this with 110V it would take too long for it to bring the temp up where it needs to be.

3. Yes - 110v/120v - pretty much the same thing.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:27 PM   #535
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Thats what I do now with my HERMS and will be keeping the same line of thinking/process.

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Old 12-05-2010, 07:59 PM   #536
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very interesting. I think I might have to go this route. I looked at some vendors selling a rims tube it seemed a little pricey. I am not a big electrical guy so I am not sure I want to mess with building one. I will have to look around and see what I can find

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Old 12-07-2010, 01:33 AM   #537
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So what are the typical threads of all of your elements?" I have seen a few (most maybe) that might be NPSM threads. From everything i have read NPSM threads (being straight) are not intended to fit with NPT thread (thats tapared). At the the very least, this is not an "ideal" fit for a water tight application. Are most of you just using a rather large amount of teflon to try and get a better fit.

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Old 12-07-2010, 01:49 AM   #538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kegtoe View Post
So what are the typical threads of all of your elements?" I have seen a few (most maybe) that might be NPSM threads. From everything i have read NPSM threads (being straight) are not intended to fit with NPT thread (thats tapared). At the the very least, this is not an "ideal" fit for a water tight application. Are most of you just using a rather large amount of teflon to try and get a better fit.
I just sold a RIMs heater based on this design (using NPT bushings) and never had any issues with leaks. I also have 2 elements in my HLT & BK with NPT Bushings and no issues there either.
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:53 AM   #539
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If the NPT threads are cut deep enough to allow the NPS far enough that it seats the gasket, it will work great. If the threads bind before the gasket seats, bring on the teflon tape.

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Old 12-07-2010, 11:49 AM   #540
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I just finished looking through my copy of the Machinery's Hand Book at the section concerning American Pipe Threads. The basic tolerance for taper pipe threads (NPT) is calculated as plus or minus one turn from the basic dimensions. Since the basic thread form is the same for both straight and taper pipe threads the mechanical straight thread (NPSM) on the heater element will fit with the taper thread on the fitting.

They will thread together far enough to seal on the gasket if the female fitting is tapped to the deeper end of tolerance. If the female fitting is tapped to the shallower end of tolerance then the threads will tighten before the gasket is sealed. Due to the thread form this will not produce a water tight joint without a sealer.

I borrowed a 1" NPSM pipe tap and ran it through the fittings on my RIMS tube (made from 1 1/2" pipe) to make certain that the joint would seal on the gasket. The tap only removed a very fine chip until it was well past the depth needed. In general it is quite possible to do a selective fit if you have 3 or 4 female couplings to try.

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