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Old 09-16-2010, 04:14 PM   #421
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In a traditional system you still need to sparge even when you recirculate your wort. I use a no sparge system.

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Old 09-16-2010, 04:16 PM   #422
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I found this and thought I'd share...

http://www.vandelogt.nl/htm/rims_herms_uk.htm

Helps explain it for use newbs.

Limulus, why do you use a no sparge system? Just ease of use or you have a bigger, better setup so you don't have?

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Old 09-16-2010, 04:43 PM   #423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IPAAAA View Post
I found this and thought I'd share...

http://www.vandelogt.nl/htm/rims_herms_uk.htm

Helps explain it for use newbs.

Limulus, why do you use a no sparge system? Just ease of use or you have a bigger, better setup so you don't have?
To save time and out of general laziness. I did a couple of Brew In A Bag (BIAB) sessions last year and it worked pretty well (search for BIAB and you will see a lot of threads here and on other forums).

I had brewed back in the 90s and stopped when the kids came along. I already had a pump from those days and just decided to go with a no sparge RIMS. There are others on HBT who also use similar systems (bakins for one). He uses a real RIMS heater and not the bucket heater I have. If my lazy man RIMS does not work, I will buy a real RIMS tube but will stick with the no sparge method...at least for now.
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:50 PM   #424
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Whats the purpose of having a T-peice on both ends ? In other words run the wort straight in from the opposite side the element is installed.
Well, the original design was to have the element at one end, and the probe at the other, for no reason other than that's how most of the one's I've seen were built. So, I bought all the parts I needed, figuring instead of using a 1.5" to 1" reducer to a 1" to 3/4 reducer (limited selection) I'd just solder that brass fitting into the 1.5" end cap. I soldered up the 1.5" pieces and then got to thinking about it (usually a bad idea) and I didn't like that the probe wire was going one direction, and the element wire the opposite. I guess I wanted to tidy it up by having all the electrical going one direction, and the hoses all going one direction. It wasn't perfectly planned or executed, but it works very well.

Short answer: there is no good reason to have T's at both ends, I changed the design halfway through.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:08 PM   #425
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I have a RIMS tube on order and I am trying to decide on the element. I will be running 120v and need to stay around 1500w or so. I can get a low density 5500w 240v element locally and was wondering what you guys thought about running at 1375w vs 1500w?
Most 1500w low density elements appear to be zinc plated and I am just not sure if I'm comfortable with that.

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Old 09-16-2010, 07:26 PM   #426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IPAAAA View Post
I found this and thought I'd share...

http://www.vandelogt.nl/htm/rims_herms_uk.htm

Helps explain it for use newbs.
Thanks for that link. Helped explain it to this noob.

If you use a RIMS system could you essential make it a no sparge if you start with the full boil volume of water,and after the normal mash time you set the PID to the higher sparge temp and the recirculate for the remaining sparge time?

I could be way off here. But havent seen this answered elsewhere. If its found anywhere else please feel free to show me where it is
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:44 PM   #427
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Thanks for that link. Helped explain it to this noob.

If you use a RIMS system could you essential make it a no sparge if you start with the full boil volume of water,and after the normal mash time you set the PID to the higher sparge temp and the recirculate for the remaining sparge time?

I could be way off here. But havent seen this answered elsewhere. If its found anywhere else please feel free to show me where it is
Yes, you do this even with a sparge, it's called mashing out.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:46 PM   #428
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Originally Posted by Shackled View Post
Thanks for that link. Helped explain it to this noob.

If you use a RIMS system could you essential make it a no sparge if you start with the full boil volume of water,and after the normal mash time you set the PID to the higher sparge temp and the recirculate for the remaining sparge time?

I could be way off here. But havent seen this answered elsewhere. If its found anywhere else please feel free to show me where it is
If i'm following your logic correctly, you would have a very, very thin mash. Not an ideal situation.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:01 PM   #429
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I may not have asked this in the best way.
And Im going to just toss out some numbers as an example

lets say I need ~6 gallons for my full boil.
If I would normally mash with 4 gallons, 1 gallon absorbed by the grains, leaving 3 gallons from the 1 hour mash, then sparge with another 3 gallons to get my 6 gallons
Could I in theory use a RIMS setup with 7 gallons, with the same 1 gallon lost to grains, after first mash of 1 hour just up the temp to what it would be after a normal sparge?


I have many thoughts, most of them are not good ones......

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Old 09-16-2010, 11:48 PM   #430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shackled View Post
Thanks for that link. Helped explain it to this noob.

If you use a RIMS system could you essential make it a no sparge if you start with the full boil volume of water,and after the normal mash time you set the PID to the higher sparge temp and the recirculate for the remaining sparge time?

I could be way off here. But havent seen this answered elsewhere. If its found anywhere else please feel free to show me where it is
No problem. I am a total noob and that helped explain a lot of it to me too.
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