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Old 09-15-2010, 01:28 PM   #411
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Nice heater



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Old 09-15-2010, 02:02 PM   #412
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Whats the purpose of having a T-peice on both ends ? In other words run the wort straight in from the opposite side the element is installed.



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Old 09-15-2010, 03:23 PM   #413
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Whats the purpose of having a T-peice on both ends ? In other words run the wort straight in from the opposite side the element is installed.
Probably one end for thermocouple, one end for element. Tees are for wort in/out.
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Old 09-16-2010, 06:59 AM   #414
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In this case the thermocouple is installed on the same side as the element. The wort could enter from the end. Unless theres another reason for the t-peice straight flow would be better.

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Old 09-16-2010, 07:36 AM   #415
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Anyone have a basic how-to explanation on how this all works. It is kinda confusing to look at this all and figure out what all everything does.

Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question.

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Old 09-16-2010, 12:45 PM   #416
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Anyone have a basic how-to explanation on how this all works. It is kinda confusing to look at this all and figure out what all everything does.

Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question.
I'll be your Huckleberry: Basically you have a mash tun with a valve at the bottom. That MT can be a keggle or a cooler. A pump recirculates wort from the bottom and that passes through a heating tube (RIMS tube like the copper one a few posts up) and gently back to the top of the grain bed. Most people use a PID of some sort with a K-type probe inserted into the wort or into the RIMS tube. That tells the heater when to cycle on and off for maintaining the mash temp. The pump recirculates the wort for the entire mash. Never allow the heating element to run dry or you'll be replacing it.

A lot of guys build their own PID but you can buy a ready made one like I did from Auber Instruments. Also, the RIMS tube parts are not available at your local Home Depot or Lowes. The weldless parts are what most guys have used and you will spend around $100 for those in stainless. However, there is a vendor on this forum who is manufacturing a ready to use welded tube for $75! http://brewersequipment.com/SSRimsTube.html
You will also need the electric element that screws into the tube and hose barbs for your tubing. The elements are typically water heater elements and they can be bought at HD or Lowes. Everyone recommends a low watt density element so your wort will not scorch. There are some threads here about which ones to use and how to wire them.

You could also do this:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/introducing-lazy-mans-rims-195790/
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:17 PM   #417
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In this case the thermocouple is installed on the same side as the element. The wort could enter from the end. Unless theres another reason for the t-peice straight flow would be better.
Yes, on closer inspection I see that. Seems counter-intuitive to have the temp probe so close to the element. I would want it measuring the flow from the outlet.
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:34 PM   #418
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I suspect the probe is at the outlet but that doesn't explain why there is a T at each end. Hopefully klyph will tell us.

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Old 09-16-2010, 02:35 PM   #419
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Yes, on closer inspection I see that. Seems counter-intuitive to have the temp probe so close to the element. I would want it measuring the flow from the outlet.
It is rather close to the element, but looking at his pump orientation, I would say it is monitoring the outlet.
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:06 PM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post
I'll be your Huckleberry: Basically you have a mash tun with a valve at the bottom. That MT can be a keggle or a cooler. A pump recirculates wort from the bottom and that passes through a heating tube (RIMS tube like the copper one a few posts up) and gently back to the top of the grain bed. Most people use a PID of some sort with a K-type probe inserted into the wort or into the RIMS tube. That tells the heater when to cycle on and off for maintaining the mash temp. The pump recirculates the wort for the entire mash. Never allow the heating element to run dry or you'll be replacing it.

A lot of guys build their own PID but you can buy a ready made one like I did from Auber Instruments. Also, the RIMS tube parts are not available at your local Home Depot or Lowes. The weldless parts are what most guys have used and you will spend around $100 for those in stainless. However, there is a vendor on this forum who is manufacturing a ready to use welded tube for $75! http://brewersequipment.com/SSRimsTube.html
You will also need the electric element that screws into the tube and hose barbs for your tubing. The elements are typically water heater elements and they can be bought at HD or Lowes. Everyone recommends a low watt density element so your wort will not scorch. There are some threads here about which ones to use and how to wire them.

You could also do this:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/introducing-lazy-mans-rims-195790/
Thanks.

So this is basically all for the mashing processes to be easier? You don't have to sparge or anything with a recirculating mash since your entire water volume is already gonna be in there?


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