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Old 07-27-2010, 01:03 AM   #401
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I'm new too, but IIRC, the HD and LD, and ULD refer to the watt density. In other words, how the watts are spread out over the area of the element. Larger=less dense.

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Old 07-27-2010, 11:19 AM   #402
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Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Well, I agree the element is gonna get really hot really quick, but I don't know if the air in the tube would transfer the temp to the probe quick enough to save the element?

I agree if you got it you might as well use it... just not sure I would depend on it to do the job.
I don't think it is as much of a function of the probe as much as it is a function of how fast can the pid respond to the change in temperature as read from the probe. The probe reads the change in temperature. It doesn't know whether it is in a liquid or air, nor does it care.

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I tested mine as if I had a stuck mash by closing the valve and completely stopped the flow...
I use a BCS460 and the control, caught the temp before it reached 170f. (It spiked about 10f above the setpoint) That is out of the box setup (I can't take credit fur tuning), I'm not sure an Auber PID would do the same, the other thing is that my tube is 2" in diameter so it has a fairly large volume to "dampen" the temp spike.
The Auber Instruments PID responds very quickly. It may be a bit more robust for the application being it is designed explicitly as a PID instead of a processor running PID software. This is a hunch on my part though.

The flow switch works well with wort so far but I have done only 7 brews since installing it. I do however clean it thoroughly after every brew (love those triclovers, makes disassembly a piece of cake)
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:29 PM   #403
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Originally Posted by Sawdustguy View Post
I don't think it is as much of a function of the probe as much as it is a function of how fast can the pid respond to the change in temperature as read from the probe. The probe reads the change in temperature. It doesn't know whether it is in a liquid or air, nor does it care.
...
I know the PID responds to the probe, but the temp of the probe has to change before the PID will react.

As an example;
If a heating element is submerged in water and the surface of the element is 212f, you won't be able to put you hand in the water (it will all be 212f). However, in open air, you can put your hand relatively close to a red hot element that is way hotter than 212f.

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The Auber Instruments PID responds very quickly. It may be a bit more robust for the application being it is designed explicitly as a PID instead of a processor running PID software. This is a hunch on my part though.
The Auber PID will respond based on it's tuning. If it was Auto Tuned with a high volume of liquid flowing across the element then when/if the flow stops, there may be an issue.
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:20 PM   #404
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Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
I know the PID responds to the probe, but the temp of the probe has to change before the PID will react.

As an example;
If a heating element is submerged in water and the surface of the element is 212f, you won't be able to put you hand in the water (it will all be 212f). However, in open air, you can put your hand relatively close to a red hot element that is way hotter than 212f. The Auber PID will respond based on it's tuning. If it was Auto Tuned with a high volume of liquid flowing across the element then when/if the flow stops, there may be an issue.
That is a proximity issue. The sensor and PID will respond quick enough but the issue is if the sensor is close enough to the element to sense the heat rise. If the water is at 212f and the sensor is in the water it will measure the rise easily. The only time I see this being a problem is when the inside of the RIMS tube is completely dry. With a stuck mash there should be some fluid left in the tube that will absorb heat and turn to steam and that will definitely be responded to by the PID. This is exactly why I mount my RIMS tube horizontally with the outlets facing upwards. The tube will never be dry when experiencing a stuck mash and the protect relay will kick in because it will be submerged.
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:53 PM   #405
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Can someone post the parameters and process for programming the AL1 or AL2 outputs on the PID to prevent dry-firing of the RIMS element? Thanks.

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Old 09-01-2010, 07:17 PM   #406
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I think it would be easier to use a CROSS and simply put a valve on the 4th side. After the brew session, open the valve and drain. But that is me.
I know you can't hear this Pol,, but THANK YOU for being someone else who's saying this. Crosses should be used so much more. Maybe they aren't because they're more expensive than two tees... *shrugs* but I think it's way better. In this case, it's with an E-RIMS tube, but there are man yother applications. For instance, I was thinking of drilling two holes (like most people) near the bottom of the kegs - one for the sightglass/thermowell combination and one for the ball valve. However, I can combine that elbow and tee into one cross using only one hole. It looks better and is easier to use because I have the ball valve on the bottom of the cross. Yeah.
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:39 AM   #407
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First of all, thank you. Everyone. This thread is awesome.

I'm not sure, though, how people are connecting the tubing to the RIMS tees. Are you using hose barbs and hose clamps? Since I'm using QD's on all my tubing, can I just screw two QD's into the tees on the RIMS pipe?

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Old 09-15-2010, 03:04 AM   #408
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First of all, thank you. Everyone. This thread is awesome.

I'm not sure, though, how people are connecting the tubing to the RIMS tees. Are you using hose barbs and hose clamps? Since I'm using QD's on all my tubing, can I just screw two QD's into the tees on the RIMS pipe?
Yup. I'm in process of building this right now and I will be screwing in male QD's on both tees.
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:29 AM   #409
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First of all, thank you. Everyone. This thread is awesome.

I'm not sure, though, how people are connecting the tubing to the RIMS tees. Are you using hose barbs and hose clamps? Since I'm using QD's on all my tubing, can I just screw two QD's into the tees on the RIMS pipe?
I have the McMaster brass quick connects on mine.







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Old 09-15-2010, 10:47 AM   #410
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Cool. Thanks.

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