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Old 05-12-2010, 09:45 PM   #381
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Originally Posted by kcinpdx View Post
After reading through most of this thread many times, I have some basic questions. Of course I now own nearly every piece mentions in the very first post, awaiting a free evening for construction and testing. I get the basic diagram and think I can manage not to kill myself, but here goes:
will 12 gauge wire suffice?
Can anyone recommend switch wiring advice for a pump and the PID/element?
What is the wattage of the element you plan to use? That will determine the gauge of wire to use.
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:39 AM   #382
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1500W from Lowe's - whirlpool I believe. Unfortunately there are zero markings on it so I cannot determine if it is HD or LD.

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Old 05-13-2010, 04:48 AM   #383
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Use 12, if you determine that 1500 does not do it then it makes it simple to upgrade to 2000 watt element, which is what I am using on a 20amp/12 wire set up.

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Old 07-02-2010, 04:48 PM   #384
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How would you wire it if you didn't want the heater to come on unless the pump was also running?

Ian

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Old 07-02-2010, 05:06 PM   #385
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Wire the PID output through the pump switch, so when the pump is off, it over rides the heating element's relay.

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Old 07-25-2010, 03:07 PM   #386
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I just ordered one of Derrin's RIMS tubes, and I'm sourcing the rest of the parts. I've read this entire thread, twice, and still have a couple of questions:

Would you suggest a 240V 5500 or so watt element at 110V, as opposed to trying to locate a 1500W 120V element? Is there any discernible difference, other than availability?

Would a 25A SSR be adequate for the above mentioned elements, or would a 40A be required. I know the 40A runs cooler, but is the amperage rating adequate on the 25A?

Is using the alarm output on the PID the easiest fix for insuring the element is not dry-fired, or is there a better way through hard-wiring?

Anyway, thanks for the great thread, and thanks in advance for any help/advice.

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Old 07-25-2010, 08:30 PM   #387
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Plumbingsupplies.com has 1500 watt low density elements.

A 25 amp sir will work fine.

The alarm will work. I also use a flow switch to protect the RIMS.

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Old 07-25-2010, 08:47 PM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelale View Post
I just ordered one of Derrin's RIMS tubes, and I'm sourcing the rest of the parts. I've read this entire thread, twice, and still have a couple of questions:

Would you suggest a 240V 5500 or so watt element at 110V, as opposed to trying to locate a 1500W 120V element? Is there any discernible difference, other than availability?

Would a 25A SSR be adequate for the above mentioned elements, or would a 40A be required. I know the 40A runs cooler, but is the amperage rating adequate on the 25A?

Is using the alarm output on the PID the easiest fix for insuring the element is not dry-fired, or is there a better way through hard-wiring?

Anyway, thanks for the great thread, and thanks in advance for any help/advice.
I really wonder about using the PID alarm. Here is the problem as I see it... you are relying on the PID temp probe to set the alarm when the temp gets to high, but if the RIMs tube empties what will the probe read? I understand that it "should" work if the element boils the tube empty and generates steam, but I'm not sure it will really work??

I like SawDustGuy's idea of using a flow switch. It is gonna rely on fluid movement which I think is a better indicator.
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:26 PM   #389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdustguy View Post
Plumbingsupplies.com has 1500 watt low density elements.

The alarm will work. I also use a flow switch to protect the RIMS.
My local Lowes has 4500W 240V for a lot less, when you include shipping. I know that it would only be around 1125 watts when on 120V, but would that be a show stopper? Wouldn't that wattage work to hold mash temps?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
I really wonder about using the PID alarm. Here is the problem as I see it... you are relying on the PID temp probe to set the alarm when the temp gets to high, but if the RIMs tube empties what will the probe read? I understand that it "should" work if the element boils the tube empty and generates steam, but I'm not sure it will really work??

I like SawDustGuy's idea of using a flow switch. It is gonna rely on fluid movement which I think is a better indicator.
I thought CodeRage recommended a low setting for the alarm to account for no wort flow? I may have completely misunderstood. I don't remember seeing anything on a flow switch. Any more information on that? Oh one more question I just thought of, can I use the built-in relay on the PID for running a March pump? Or would I even want to. I was just thinking it would make for easier wiring at the control. Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:45 PM   #390
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My local home depot has 1500W 120v elements for under $10.

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