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Old 04-19-2010, 10:08 PM   #371
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Anybody? This is the last part holding me up.
If autotune isn't sufficient, you'll need to manually tune the P I D parameters. Unfortunately, there isn't "one" set of parameters since it depends on flow rate, wattage, sensor placements, etc. It's a trial and error process.

My recommendation is to run the autotune program, place an accurate thermometer at the outlet, and then manually adjust the parameters until the outlet temperature doesn't overshoot the target and doesn't take too long to recover.
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:30 PM   #372
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Have any of you had trouble with your final gravity when switching over to rims? I have finally nailed down the system and am able to maintain a stable temp but I am consistently getting a higher final gravity than anticipated.

My last brew, I was between 150-152 the whole mash and it has gone from 1070 to 1020, I was shooting for 1014. I haven't had this trouble until I have been mashing in a keg and using RIMs.

Is it possible that the wort is getting too hot going through the RIMs chamber and stopping conversion?

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Old 04-21-2010, 09:34 PM   #373
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Is it possible that the wort is getting too hot going through the RIMs chamber and stopping conversion?
Sounds more like it's effectively mashing at a higher temperature, though the temperature of the actual mash may not be higher, when it goes through the RIMS, maybe that activates the enzymes that work at higher temps leaving you with less fermentable sugars and lower attenuation.
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:47 PM   #374
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how much flow do you allow to go through? I have a 1/2 ball valve controlling the flow. I wonder if I just leave it wide open the wort won't be in the chamber long enough to scorch.

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Old 04-21-2010, 11:56 PM   #375
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I run RIMS. I don't think it's a "scorch issue". I suspect that it's a temperature gradient issue. (cuz I'm dealing with this too)

ie: depends on where you are measuring your mash temp from.

Having a full false bottom in my keggle, I can run my recirculation wide open without stuck mash probs, (tho I don't) but poking a thermocouple around the mash at different levels I find different temps.

I have not spent enough time yet playing with my new system to resolve this temp gradient, but I know that I need to insulate my system better. Too much heat loss out the sides, bottom and plumbing. Right now my heater output is about 4 degrees higher than my heater input. That means the top of my grain bed is 156 while the bottom is 152-ish.

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Old 04-22-2010, 01:27 AM   #376
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Originally Posted by Duffer View Post
I run RIMS. I don't think it's a "scorch issue". I suspect that it's a temperature gradient issue. (cuz I'm dealing with this too)

ie: depends on where you are measuring your mash temp from.

Having a full false bottom in my keggle, I can run my recirculation wide open without stuck mash probs, (tho I don't) but poking a thermocouple around the mash at different levels I find different temps.

I have not spent enough time yet playing with my new system to resolve this temp gradient, but I know that I need to insulate my system better. Too much heat loss out the sides, bottom and plumbing. Right now my heater output is about 4 degrees higher than my heater input. That means the top of my grain bed is 156 while the bottom is 152-ish.
that sounds logical. I just finished my insulation of the keg following Bobbys "fireproof" design so hopefully that helps out.
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:06 AM   #377
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After reading through most of this thread many times, I have some basic questions. Of course I now own nearly every piece mentions in the very first post, awaiting a free evening for construction and testing. I get the basic diagram and think I can manage not to kill myself, but here goes:
will 12 gauge wire suffice?
Can anyone recommend switch wiring advice for a pump and the PID/element?

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Old 05-12-2010, 08:37 PM   #378
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@kcinpdx

I built a 1500W eRims system. Im very pleased with it.

A 1500W element at 120V draws 12.5 Amps. It's close, but most residential 120V lines are installed with 14 AWG on a 15A breaker. I used a section of bulk cord 14A stranded rated for 15A and insulated for 120V. It does not get warm even at PID 100% duty cycle.

Cheers!

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Old 05-12-2010, 08:39 PM   #379
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--- that should read "14AWG stranded"... where did the edit feature go??

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Old 05-12-2010, 08:40 PM   #380
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Oh, and 12AWG wire will be fine, if not better than 14AWG.

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