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Old 04-21-2009, 02:20 PM   #21
Sawdustguy
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I am sure you could do that. There are more powerful elements available from PlumbingSupply.com also.

Model......Volts......Watts......Density........Price
02853.......120.........1500.......Extra Low......$20.12
02463.......120.........1500.......Low............ .$11.46
02143.......120.........1500.......High........... ..$7.86
02203.......120.........2000.......High........... ..$9.24
02163.......240.........1500.......High........... ..$7.97
02223.......240.........2000.......High........... ..$8.07
02243.......240.........2500.......High........... ..$9.22
02263.......240.........3000.......High........... ..$8.02
02283.......240.........3500.......High........... ..$8.09
02342.......240.........4500.......High.......... ...$6.73
02583.......240.........4500.......Low.......... ...$10.32
02953.......240.........4500.......Extra Low......$27.69
02363.......240.........5500.......High........... .$12.51
02933.......240.........5500.......Low............ .$21.87
02963.......240.........5500.......Extra Low..... $26.92
02613.......240.........6000.......Low............ .$22.82

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Old 04-21-2009, 06:18 PM   #22
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what happens if the element goes dry? Does it burn up? and if so, how do you prevent that from happening?

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Old 04-21-2009, 07:38 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brickhouse View Post
what happens if the element goes dry? Does it burn up? and if so, how do you prevent that from happening?
I am looking at a Rheem element SP10868LH 120v 1440 Watt

Resistored Stainless Steel Heating Elements
Preferred Parts resistored stainless steel elements feature a low watt density design with an outer sheath of Incology® 800 to resist failure from “dry firing”. Built in resistor helps prolong anode life for greater tank protection and longer working life.


Costs more !
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Old 04-21-2009, 08:07 PM   #24
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what happens if the element goes dry? Does it burn up? and if so, how do you prevent that from happening?
Mine is mounted vertically so the air is located above the end of the element. Just don't turn it on until you get liquid out of the top hose.
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:16 AM   #25
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I have been accumulating parts for this build and one question comes to mind - how do you close off the end of the heater element to avoid electrocution? Seems like it would not be an off the shelf part.

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Old 04-27-2009, 12:18 AM   #26
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There's a gasket that comes with the heating element that seals it to the ss or the copper.

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Old 04-27-2009, 02:22 AM   #27
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Mine is very similar, but with a few differences:

Used Auber RTD instead of thermocouple: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, NPT Thread [PT100-L50NPT] - $29.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Used 1 1/2" SS pipe from BFO: Stainless Steel Fittings

Used a 5400W 240V ULD element, but run it at 120V.

I covered the dangerous end of my element with a PVC cap.

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Old 04-27-2009, 06:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakins View Post
Mine is very similar, but with a few differences:

Used Auber RTD instead of thermocouple: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, NPT Thread [PT100-L50NPT] - $29.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Used 1 1/2" SS pipe from BFO: Stainless Steel Fittings

Used a 5400W 240V ULD element, but run it at 120V.

I covered the dangerous end of my element with a PVC cap.
After I took the pictures I attached the wires and dipped the end of the element in Liquid Electrical Tape. I was very careful and taped off the portions that I did not want covered and it doesn't look half bad. I also plan to put a lexan sheet over it for safety so nobody gets burned by touching it the heater. Safety is no accident.
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakins View Post
Mine is very similar, but with a few differences:

Used Auber RTD instead of thermocouple: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, NPT Thread [PT100-L50NPT] - $29.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Used 1 1/2" SS pipe from BFO: Stainless Steel Fittings

Used a 5400W 240V ULD element, but run it at 120V.

I covered the dangerous end of my element with a PVC cap.
Sawdustguy and bakins, thanks for the information...Just the websites to order the parts from is very helpful.

I just purchased the parts (mentioned above) to make a 1 1/2" RIMS heater. I went with the Auberins PID controller and RTD thermocouple for better accuracy. I also chose the ultra low density heating element made from SS nichrome (better resistance to burnout if operated dry).

rims.jpg  
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:11 AM   #30
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This is awesome and I need to make it.

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