Sawdustguy

Recipes 

I am sure you could do that. There are more powerful elements available from PlumbingSupply.com also.

Model......Volts......Watts......Density........Price
02853.......120.........1500.......Extra Low......$20.12
02463.......120.........1500.......Low............ .$11.46
02143.......120.........1500.......High........... ..$7.86
02203.......120.........2000.......High........... ..$9.24
02163.......240.........1500.......High........... ..$7.97
02223.......240.........2000.......High........... ..$8.07
02243.......240.........2500.......High........... ..$9.22
02263.......240.........3000.......High........... ..$8.02
02283.......240.........3500.......High........... ..$8.09
02342.......240.........4500.......High.......... ...$6.73
02583.......240.........4500.......Low.......... ...$10.32
02953.......240.........4500.......Extra Low......$27.69
02363.......240.........5500.......High........... .$12.51
02933.......240.........5500.......Low............ .$21.87
02963.......240.........5500.......Extra Low..... $26.92
02613.......240.........6000.......Low............ .$22.82

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Guy

Brewery URL: Black Dog Brewery NY

BBQ Team URL: Two Fat Polocks BBQ Team

Brickhouse

Recipes 

what happens if the element goes dry? Does it burn up? and if so, how do you prevent that from happening?

samc

Recipes 

I am looking at a Rheem element SP10868LH 120v 1440 Watt

Resistored Stainless Steel Heating Elements
Preferred Parts resistored stainless steel elements feature a low watt density design with an outer sheath of Incology® 800 to resist failure from “dry firing”. Built in resistor helps prolong anode life for greater tank protection and longer working life.


Costs more !

slimer

Recipes 

Mine is mounted vertically so the air is located above the end of the element. Just don't turn it on until you get liquid out of the top hose.

samc

Recipes 

I have been accumulating parts for this build and one question comes to mind - how do you close off the end of the heater element to avoid electrocution? Seems like it would not be an off the shelf part.

slimer

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There's a gasket that comes with the heating element that seals it to the ss or the copper.

bakins

Recipes 

Mine is very similar, but with a few differences:

Used Auber RTD instead of thermocouple: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, NPT Thread [PT100-L50NPT] - $29.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Used 1 1/2" SS pipe from BFO: Stainless Steel Fittings

Used a 5400W 240V ULD element, but run it at 120V.

I covered the dangerous end of my element with a PVC cap.

Sawdustguy

Recipes 

After I took the pictures I attached the wires and dipped the end of the element in Liquid Electrical Tape. I was very careful and taped off the portions that I did not want covered and it doesn't look half bad. I also plan to put a lexan sheet over it for safety so nobody gets burned by touching it the heater. Safety is no accident.

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Guy

Brewery URL: Black Dog Brewery NY

BBQ Team URL: Two Fat Polocks BBQ Team

lamarguy

Recipes 

Sawdustguy and bakins, thanks for the information...Just the websites to order the parts from is very helpful.

I just purchased the parts (mentioned above) to make a 1 1/2" RIMS heater. I went with the Auberins PID controller and RTD thermocouple for better accuracy. I also chose the ultra low density heating element made from SS nichrome (better resistance to burnout if operated dry).

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Doggfather Brewery

Planned: Lambic, American IPA
Fermenting: 6 gals of 1.090 stout (Belgian) & 6 gals of 1.090 stout (English)
Tapped: Berliner Weisse, Black English IPA, German Pils, & Live Oak Primus

MgMt_Home_Brew

Recipes 

This is awesome and I need to make it.

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I once read about the dangers of drinking, I have since stopped reading. - Unknown