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Old 01-08-2010, 02:54 PM   #151
The Pol
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Thanks for the tip on Murray Equipment. Nice pricing, the same as copper in most cases. They are also only 120 miles from me, so shipping should be cheap and fast!

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Old 01-08-2010, 03:04 PM   #152
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Maybe it was already mentioned, but I didnt see it in the wiring diagram. Where do you ground the RIMS? Or is it not neccessary.
I ran the ground wire out of the the pipe/epoxy seal I put on the element connection and the wrapped and soldered it to one of the u-clamps holding the RIMS manifold to my mount. I'll try and post a pic this weekend, but I think one of the other system pics in this thread shows how it's done too (that's where I got the idea).
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:37 PM   #153
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I would assume that it is best to have your INlet and OUTlet to the RIMS facing UP so that if you lose fluid flow, your heater does NOT go dry and melt your elements mid brew. Makes sense.

This being said, anyone building a drain so that you can drain the RIMS heater dry after a session so that you dont have your elements soaking 365 days a year in water and cleanser? I mean, using a CROSS instead of a TEE so that you can have the element opening(horizontal), RIMS tube opening (horizontal), INlet opening(vertical UP) and a DRAIN opening (vertical facing down)

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Old 01-08-2010, 03:54 PM   #154
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...anyone building a drain so that you can drain the RIMS heater dry after a session so that you dont have your elements soaking 365 days a year in water and cleanser? I mean, using a CROSS instead of a TEE so that you can have the element opening(horizontal), RIMS tube opening (horizontal), INlet opening(vertical UP) and a DRAIN opening (vertical facing down)
I've got both of mine facing up, but since it's just mounted on a small base, and not to a brewstand, I can simply lift the whole thing to drain it. This will both let me get every last drop of wort out as well as enable me to more easily invert it to dran it dry when I'm cleaning it.

If you mount it to a brewstand, here's what I would suggest:

- Mount the RIMS manifold to a metal or wood base using the u/muffler clamps.

- Mount this base to your brewstand using bolts (permanantly installed in the stand) and wingnuts. You could probably get away with 2 of these, then all you have to do is remove the wingnuts, slide the base off of the bolts attached to the stand and do whatever you want to it. It's much easier to mess with a couple of wing nuts than 4 bolts on 2 clamps. Other options could be doing the same with a hitch pin / cotter pin arangement.
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:56 PM   #155
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I think it would be easier to use a CROSS and simply put a valve on the 4th side. After the brew session, open the valve and drain. But that is me.

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Old 01-08-2010, 04:03 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
I would assume that it is best to have your INlet and OUTlet to the RIMS facing UP so that if you lose fluid flow, your heater does NOT go dry and melt your elements mid brew. Makes sense.

This being said, anyone building a drain so that you can drain the RIMS heater dry after a session so that you dont have your elements soaking 365 days a year in water and cleanser? I mean, using a CROSS instead of a TEE so that you can have the element opening(horizontal), RIMS tube opening (horizontal), INlet opening(vertical UP) and a DRAIN opening (vertical facing down)
I have my Tee's oriented in opposite directions... The inlet is on the bottom, the outlet is on top. The RIM's "tube" is horizontal. When I pull the QD on the inlet, it drains. I just make sure I don't fire the element until the pump is flowing wort through the heater.
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:13 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimWeber View Post
Maybe it was already mentioned, but I didnt see it in the wiring diagram. Where do you ground the RIMS? Or is it not neccessary.
Here is a few pictures of the RIMS Heater I built. I used an electrical box instead of the epoxy routine to "pot" the connections. So there is a grounding stud in the box. This is based on what I saw on another site.







There is a silicon o-ring and a SS washer between the box cover and the bushing on the heater. What I like about this is that the o-ring is thicker than the washer but fits inside the id of the washer. With the 2" bushing, there is enough flat area that I can tighten it down until the cover/washer/bushing make secure contact and the o-ring makes a nice seal.

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Old 01-08-2010, 04:15 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
I have my Tee's oriented in opposite directions... The inlet is on the bottom, the outlet is on top. The RIM's "tube" is horizontal. When I pull the QD on the inlet, it drains. I just make sure I don't fire the element until the pump is flowing wort through the heater.
What happens if you get a stuck mash during the recirc?
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:17 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
I would assume that it is best to have your INlet and OUTlet to the RIMS facing UP so that if you lose fluid flow, your heater does NOT go dry and melt your elements mid brew. Makes sense.

This being said, anyone building a drain so that you can drain the RIMS heater dry after a session so that you dont have your elements soaking 365 days a year in water and cleanser? I mean, using a CROSS instead of a TEE so that you can have the element opening(horizontal), RIMS tube opening (horizontal), INlet opening(vertical UP) and a DRAIN opening (vertical facing down)
Both inlets up won't save you from a stop in flow. The element will heat that small amount of fluid in the chamber up so fast and boil it off in a heart beat. You'll buy yourself maybe 15 seconds if that. I designed mine so that if flow stops gravity will keep feeding it from the MLT. The idea was as steam left cool mash runnings would replace it. Well, it kind of turns into a pressure cooker and will burn the crap out of what ever is sitting on the element.

I know most tube and shell heat exchangers use in one side out the opposite to promote turbulence and even distribution. Don't see why replacing the tube with an element would be any different.

As for draining. My setup comes straight in the front and out the bottom of the Hex. There is a dump valve at the lowest point of my plumbing. Open it up and every thing drains completely.
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:20 PM   #160
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Well, if you have the inlet and outlet facing up, and get a stuck mash, the RIMS heater wont drain itself with a stop in flow. IF you get a stuck mash, gravity wont feed from the MLT to the heater, becuase your mash is stuck in the first place.

I assumed that the temp. probe in the tube would keep the element from heating the fluid to a boiling temp. I mean, it is set at 155F or so? Wouldnt the chamber ONLY heat to 155F and therefore not boil off? I mean, in 15 seconds, wouldnt the PID shut off the element once the fluid reached 156F?

Guess I was wrong?

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