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Old 09-12-2009, 01:31 AM   #101
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Congratulations and happy birthday! Got a couple of questions for you if you don't mind.

1. Did you have the element throttled back at all during the sparge? If so, what wattage were you running it at?

2. What was your estimated flow rate for sparging?

3. Did you end up going with the 1 1/2" pipe or did you stick with 2"?


Thanks for posting all this - it's been helpful.
1. I had the heater at 60% for sparge mode. This produced mid 160's temps from 80 degree ground water. I still haven't quite figured out tuning of the PID control for sparge mode, mostly because the flow rate is so slow. I found the duty cycle mode much easier to implement and produced a more consistent temp. I assume I'll need a slightly higher wattage setting during the wintertime.

2. Using my trusty measuring quart and a stop watch, I measured 1 quart filled in 1 minute. Seems spot on since the sparge took 50 minutes to get 12.75 gallons (51 qt).

3. I stayed with the 1.5" piping. I did switch to a longer, higher power density element which required an additional coupler and nipple to extend the piping. It's documented somewhere in this thread a couple of pages back. My parts list needs to be updated.
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Old 09-12-2009, 07:52 PM   #102
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Just went back to your parts list... Man, I was going to use CPVC for this but your source for SS is unbeatable! 304 SS tees cheaper than CPVC, nipples about the same price. I'm rethinking now.

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Old 09-13-2009, 03:51 AM   #103
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Good thing I'm an engineer and not a welder then.

I appreciate the input but I'd have to disagree with you. I probably added too much material and piled it all up but I think what you're criticizing is aesthetic and not structural. I beveled all of the edges a lot so there should be plenty fusion. There is no way this is coming apart. The first thing I did was test weld strength on a test piece. I unintentionally got to test the weld strength again when I discovered the effects of contraction for the first time. I tried to pry the beams apart by hand with no luck. I ended up cutting it with a horizontal band saw and starting over.
There would be no reason to "pile it up" wasting materials and time with proper bevel and prep, I see you also discoverved the world of thermo shrinkage with your preweld gap spacing first hand.
Well hats off for an engineer with hands on, I once insisted then handed my Tig torch and hood to an "engineer" at the Livermore Radiation Lab once. He made a great impression in front of all his fellow "engineers" with his Tig mess that made me enjoy my welding jobs all the more for the next two years afterwards.

On posting number two the picture of your electrical panel, this is the first time I have ever seen a two screw connector put in backwards an instant failure by an electrical inspector in my area, 30 year IBEW union electrician speaking here. Done getting on your case, must add your RIM's system is compact and sano. Harsh and to the point a no B/S person just my nature boss.
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Old 09-13-2009, 12:03 PM   #104
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There would be no reason to "pile it up" wasting materials and time with proper bevel and prep, I see you also discoverved the world of thermo shrinkage with your preweld gap spacing first hand.
Well hats off for an engineer with hands on, I once insisted then handed my Tig torch and hood to an "engineer" at the Livermore Radiation Lab once. He made a great impression in front of all his fellow "engineers" with his Tig mess that made me enjoy my welding jobs all the more for the next two years afterwards.

On posting number two the picture of your electrical panel, this is the first time I have ever seen a two screw connector put in backwards an instant failure by an electrical inspector in my area, 30 year IBEW union electrician speaking here. Done getting on your case, must add your RIM's system is compact and sano. Harsh and to the point a no B/S person just my nature boss.
Thanks! I appreciate the honesty. I must admit, I intentionally put it in upside down because I didn't want to come in from the other way. I'm assuming I'd have to remove some drywall? Anyway, this is temporary as we're looking for another house. Come on basement! I'll do it right next time. If those are the only two issues then I did good considering I had zero experience and help.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:03 PM   #105
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Sizz,

You wouldn't happen to have an electrical schematic for your system do you. I am going to be starting the next phase of my build which is the electical portion and the components that I am using are very similar to yours http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/anot...50/index2.html. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 10-06-2009, 03:21 PM   #106
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No getting on your ars here. Anyone that can do all and give things a shot w/o farming out..............that's rock. This is were I'm going when we move and get a basement. I hear ya there. I hate brewing in the elements. The knowledge that comes from the people on this board blows my mind sometimes. Awesome build and I got some education for free.

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Old 10-10-2009, 02:26 AM   #107
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Does the BCS actually control the pumps on/off when it senses the temp needs adjusted during mash or due you manually turn the pump on when heating element tuns on?

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Old 10-10-2009, 03:37 AM   #108
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The idea is to run the pump the whole time and the element cycles to keep the temp at the setpoint.

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Old 10-10-2009, 04:07 AM   #109
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Oh that makes sense. I am leaning toward using a PID to control the mash temps since it appears to be cheaper than the BCS. Besides the ability to monitor multiple temp probes are there other features the BCS offers?

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Old 10-10-2009, 05:28 AM   #110
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Oh that makes sense. I am leaning toward using a PID to control the mash temps since it appears to be cheaper than the BCS. Besides the ability to monitor multiple temp probes are there other features the BCS offers?
Visit the web site. There is a host of things that the BCS can do, and the website lists them all.
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