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08-10-2012, 12:54 PM
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#31
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Vendor
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
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08-10-2012, 01:06 PM
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#32
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Nothin' like a lil 60 grit...
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Southwest
Posts: 13,333
Liked 385 Times on 241 Posts Likes Given: 41
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OT/rude posts and their responses deleted. Give the OP some useful advice or move on. Knock off the childish bickering.
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08-11-2012, 04:30 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings
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It's a good welder, within its limitations.
The problem with 110vac welders is that they don't generate as much "heat" (heat being a relative term - I'm meaning heat as in penetrating power, as in getting the heat INTO the material so that the weld is not merely surface but all the way through the piece) as a 220vac one.
For doing light duty stuff, it will do just fine, and since it's Lincoln, they will stand behind it.
Light duty - stuff we do for our brewing. . . just fine. Fence repair. . . just fine. Adding wheels to a "thing" so you can move it around. . . just fine.
Realize it is going to push it to make 1/8" - that's what it says is max and that means it's the MAX. If you need to do 1/8", practice on scrap first. get a few pieces of scrap that you can break apart. Bevel the edges just a touch, then weld them together - just do a 1-2" seam. Then take it to your vice and break it! If the WELD breaks, keep practicing. If the METAL breaks. . . that's the ticket.
Does that make sense? 
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08-11-2012, 06:36 PM
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#34
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Location: Riverside, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate456789
Same set up that you use for regular steel.
You could use the 98% Argon and 2%CO2 setup but then you would have another tank of a specialty mix.
100% argon for me has more uses. and it is one less tank I have to have.
You need to be very careful to not use the same tools that you use on ferrous metals on your stainless welds or they will be contaminated. Wire brushes for example. Only use Stainless brush and keep separate grinding wheels.
Sorry don't mean to Hijack the thread.
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BTW - same for aluminum (or aluminium for those across the pond, LOL) - I have a set of brushes for aluminum, another for stainless, and another for general work. Keep them separate!  It's MUCH easier to weld clean work!
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08-14-2012, 02:25 AM
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#35
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Bern, NC
Posts: 625
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Glad I saw this. It caused me to look in craigslist and find a 90 amp flux welder for $50. I know a lot of people be hating, but after a few welds, I am able to get very good penetration on the bed frames I am using as material.
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08-14-2012, 07:20 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Riverside, CA
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on bed frames? Oh definitely!  You should have good success on bed frames - they're what, 1/16" or so which means your 110v (I'm assuming) welder should do very well.
And getting it off Craigslist? No hating there! What brand is it?
You won't get hating from me. I try to give good constructive advice where I can. 
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08-14-2012, 08:12 PM
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#37
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Location: New Bern, NC
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It is a Chicago. I got it off Craigslist. I figured I can sell it for what I paid when I get tired of it.
I think the bed frame is 1/8 inch, but I have not measured it.
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08-14-2012, 09:09 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Riverside, CA
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So that's a harbor freight one, I believe.
In any case, I would take a few scraps and test your weld to destruction as I described above... Just need a vice (or something) and a pair of pliers (channel locks or vice grips...) - that will show you objectively how well you're penetrating...
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08-15-2012, 01:40 AM
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#39
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Bern, NC
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I welded some scrap, clamped it and hit the crap out of it with a hammer and the metal bent and the weld did not break. I figured it was good enough for what I was doing. By the time I weld everything together, there will be so many welds that if some arn't up to snuff, there will be plenty holding it.
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08-15-2012, 02:01 AM
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#40
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 361
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts
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I'll second the craigslist recommendation. You can likely find a Lincoln or Miller 110V wire feed unit there for slightly more money than you can get a new HF brand unit, and it will be of much higher quality.
I spent 5 years with Sunbelt, and have their current rate sheet, $63.00 currently for a Miller 110V unit, plus fees, consumables, etc. You will be over $100.00 to get out the door for the 1'st day. I got a decent miller myself on CL for $250, and the seller even through in 2 rolls of wire.
the little small units are very handy for around the house, as long as you stay within their limitations.
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