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Old 11-17-2012, 01:14 PM   #41
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Heres an update pic... id be done if it wasnt for all the dang overtime

2012-11-11_11-14-38_36.jpg   2012-11-14_16-26-48_93.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:43 AM   #42
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sweet. looks like it is coming along


opened that room up I bet

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Old 11-20-2012, 08:51 AM   #43
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Thanks vegas... ya it opened up the room a ton. Alot more natural light now.

Another question for anybody that might be able to help.... im trying to figure what the minimum support for the counter will be. It will have an 8" overhang on one side, 4" sitting on the ponywall, and 13" overhang on the kitchen side. I grabbed 4 L brackets from home depot that look like this

http://www.architecturaldepot.com/BKT08X08FR-p-freedom-hidden-bracket.html

I was going to attach these directly to the studs using lag bolts and then drywall over the top on the side with 13". Will that be enough?

2012-11-19_18-43-16_790.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:50 AM   #44
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I hate to put it this way, but a lot of that 'depends on the loading' of your counter.

However if you have L brackets like the picture that are about the full dept of the overhang, 4 of them on a 4 foot wall should be sufficent. I might get some smaller ones and put them on the other side to improve rigidity. - but then I'm from the 'when in doubt over build' school

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Old 11-21-2012, 01:09 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACbrewer View Post
I hate to put it this way, but a lot of that 'depends on the loading' of your counter.

However if you have L brackets like the picture that are about the full dept of the overhang, 4 of them on a 4 foot wall should be sufficent. I might get some smaller ones and put them on the other side to improve rigidity. - but then I'm from the 'when in doubt over build' school
I kept looking and reading and what about the 8x8 brackets facing the kitchen side and 10x10 mounted on the same side of the wall facing the opposite direction. I can plane down a notch so they will sit flush every other stud. It will give me like 6 total. And i put a 2x4 inside were they framed the pantry so i can drill one or two through the pantry to give the pony wall a little additional stability.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:52 PM   #46
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TAnother question for anybody that can help. The current access point to the attic area is in the kitchen, which i really dont like. In the hallway there is an old whole house fan that is no longer wired up. I want to rwmove the fan and put the access there and use the fan motor for my grain mil possibly. The problem is that a rafter runs right across. Question is, can i cut it? Here are some pics

2012-11-30_16-22-02_805.jpg   2012-11-30_16-21-44_663.jpg  
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:21 PM   #47
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technically, you should never cut rafters.

That being said...

sometimes people can get away with heading out 2x4s or similar to the rafters on each side of the cut rafter in 2 places where it is cut.

ex.

as now:

----------------
----------------
----------------

(rafters)


when cut:

----------------
----| |-----
----------------

and those vertical pcs there are toe nailed into the rafters on each side "boxing out" the new opening


edit: Are you sure that runs across and through? The bottom pic there... it looks like there are some rusty old hangers holding that pcs into the left & right sides parallel to the walls

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Old 12-01-2012, 05:42 PM   #48
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That cross piece that the fan is mounted on can be removed. It's just there to mount the fan. And the short pieces that run parallel to that piece are most likely there to complete the opening for the fan, but without seeing a shot from the top you can't tell if they are taking any load.

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Old 12-01-2012, 07:19 PM   #49
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That short piece can come out - see how it is on joist hangers?

Before you close off any scuttle holes to the attic, they are required for firemen to put their heads up to see if anything is burning. Assuming that the whole house ins't going. But it sounded like you just wanted to make it less of a general access point and have another. If you have multiple attics (common in houses with additions) then you need an access point for all attics.

Ceiling joists sometimes can be cut. Rafters shouldn't be cut (well I suppose for a sky light).

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Old 12-01-2012, 11:53 PM   #50
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That picture is actually a bit decieving, those aren't hangers it is foil insulating tape. Not sure why they put that into the corners but that's what it is. I was wondering where code was as far as mandatory access point inside the house. There is a big whole cute in the roof with a metal flashing over it ( guessing that's there to put the furnace in place). I was wondering if I couldn't cut the rafter if I could just close up both openings on the interior and just use the one outside when I need to get in there

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