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Old 01-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #1
kellanv
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Default Recirculating BIAB Mini-rig

Hi everyone. Long time lurker and recent poster. I started out making wine and mead and made my way over to beer brewing which I have come to love. Currently I have been limited to partial mashes which I have completed about 12 batches of them. Soon however my house renovation will be over and I will be constructing a brew shed and getting my all grain system together. While the brew shed will be a different post when the time comes, I plan on having a temp controlled walk in type fermenter, sinks, keezer etc.

That being said, I want to run this first bit by everyone. I want to go with a BIAB system due to the simplicity and limited drawbacks for the type of beers I typically make. My goal is to have something moderately portable and simple to maintain and clean. My time is limited so I would like to spend the majority of my time brewing rather than playing with my soldering iron and welder even tho some is absolutely fine. Here are my thoughts:

• Use my current SQ-14 for heating strike water and direct firing the kettle
• Obtain a Penrose kettle with an additional bulkhead for a top input/whirlpool
• Build a small stand (for now) to hold my DudaDiesel Plate (B3-23A 30 plate) chiller and March 815 pump. The stand will serve as the connection point for everything. I have a little connection node mounted to the stand.
• Use camlocks and hoses (for now) to switch connections
• Wife says she will make me a nylon bag of my design for the grain as well as hops spider
• Eventually if all goes well I hope to use a heater element and PID to maintain the RIMS mash temperature. Should be quite easy to put into the system. Will probably hard-pipe the majority at that point.

First image is the configuration for the mash recirculation. Hoses coded to show switching.

Second is the recirculating chill. Garden hoses omitted for clarity. Basically recirculate the wort through the chiller back to the kettle until cold break then I can disconnect the green hose to the kettle and put it into the fermenter.

Thoughts? Thanks for everyone's talent on this forum. So much great information.

Kellan







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Old 01-11-2012, 07:10 PM   #2
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I don't see any photos / attachments if you tried including them with your post.

The 15-gallon Penrose kettle looks pretty cool. I found using a kettle with a wide opening helps with BIAB.

Can't really comment on the rest because I don't recirculate, etc., but it looks like you're off to a good start!



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Old 01-11-2012, 08:30 PM   #3
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I tried to direct link the images through a URL. Just attached them. Thanks!

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Old 01-11-2012, 08:55 PM   #4
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It looks like it'd work just fine, but here are my possible gotchas:
1) Are you going to use a lid for the Penrose? It was my understanding that they don't come with lids. Obviously only an issue for mashing.
2) I put my recirculation/sparge connection in the lid of my pot (really stolen from Lonnie's BRUTUS) because:
a) My basket fits so tight I couldn't seat it past a connection in the side of the vessel. I feel that you want to have your return going into the bag; If you're using a bag without a basket, I'm not sure how you'd do that in your layout.
b) I like the idea of being able to switch lids like Lonnie does to mash/boil etc if I ever go to multiple vessels.

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Old 01-11-2012, 09:23 PM   #5
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you might want to incorporate a pulley system with the stand as well. I have seen a few pulley systems with BIAB and they look slick. you could add a few more feet onto the stand currently holding your plate chiller and pump.

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Old 01-12-2012, 12:57 AM   #6
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That is basically what I do.

Mine is pretty ghetto right now.

Eventually I will upgrade system etc, but it works.

The spring clamp controls the flow of the pump so I don't drain to much out of the kettle at one time. Will get a stainless steel ball valve someday.

40qt Aluminum pot
Chugger pump
Aluminum ProFlowDynamics disconnects
Bayou Classic SP-10 Burner




Chris

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Old 01-12-2012, 01:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goybar View Post
That is basically what I do.

Mine is pretty ghetto right now.

Eventually I will upgrade system etc, but it works.

The spring clamp controls the flow of the pump so I don't drain to much out of the kettle at one time. Will get a stainless steel ball valve someday.

40qt Aluminum pot
Chugger pump
Aluminum ProFlowDynamics disconnects
Bayou Classic SP-10 Burner




Chris
That's not Getto, Thats a work of art!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Love it.

Bull
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goybar View Post
That is basically what I do.

Mine is pretty ghetto right now.

Eventually I will upgrade system etc, but it works.

The spring clamp controls the flow of the pump so I don't drain to much out of the kettle at one time. Will get a stainless steel ball valve someday.
Yes very similar and no worries about ghetto. Whatever works! I'm probably overkilling a simple pump/chiller mount but at least I know it will be solid

In regards to the lid, I think I would rather have the input in the side of the pot due to the fact that I plan on having a male camlock on the inside so I can clip in different whirlpool/circulation attachments. I think I should be able to remove the internal component, put the bag in, and attach it no problem.

When I do my electric rims I think I may include the pully on the stand. For now tho I may just mount it on the brew shed itself!

Thanks for the input so far!

Kellan
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinga View Post
you might want to incorporate a pulley system with the stand as well. I have seen a few pulley systems with biab and they look slick.
+1
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:04 PM   #10
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Right now the silcon tubing is just placed in the pot, held down with lid and large office clips (the black ones), they are also what I use to secure the bag to the top of the kettle.

I have plenty of the quick disconnects, my plan is to put them to use in the lid of the kettle for the return. to help keep heat in. I do not want to put another inlet at the top of the pot. Depending on what I'm brewing or quantity, it can get fairly close to the top.



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