Quick Keezer/Collar Question

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jmkratt

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To those of you who have built collars for your keezers: How much room did you leave between the top of a corny on the compressor hump to the lid? I was thinking I would want a fair amount of room but now am wondering if it's necessary. Any help, please?
 
Hmmm, I don't have a "compressor hump", but I'd say you'd want enough clearance for your QD's and hose...Nothing worse than a kinked beer line.
 
I recycled our old chest freezer when I did mine, and it is a little small. I wanted a 4 tap system and in order to do that, I have to have 2 conry's on the hump and two on the main bottom and had some room left for the CO2 bottle. I had to use a 2x8 collar on mine, and my lid BARELY clears my lines comming off my quick disconnects. I would say, as long as your lid doesnt smash your lines you are good to go.
 
Build the collar as short as possible. It's a long reach to the bottom of the freezer for cleaning purposes. I used 2 x 6 lumber and it's a PIA to reach the bottom to mop up spills and remove condensation water. I've found the easiest way to clean it out is to use a shop vac.
 
Build the collar as short as possible. It's a long reach to the bottom of the freezer for cleaning purposes. I used 2 x 6 lumber and it's a PIA to reach the bottom to mop up spills and remove condensation water. I've found the easiest way to clean it out is to use a shop vac.

He makes a very good point!!! That is very true! Plus, if you drop something in the bottom and need to get to it, it sucks!!!
 
Another option is to put the hinge on the collar so the collar lifts up when you open. That way you aren't lifting kegs over the shanks and hoses either.
 
Another option is to put the hinge on the collar so the collar lifts up when you open. That way you aren't lifting kegs over the shanks and hoses either.

Such as the double hinged lids I have seen. Not a bad idea.

I appreciate the help guys. I think I will have to go with 2x8's as well, its gonna be tall, but if I want that last keg on the hump I have no choice.
 
I went with 1X8 poplar to keep the weight down. All those shanks, faucets, and lines start to add up and the original hinges aren't exactly made to take it. You can add another hinge, but I'm all about KISS. The poplar isn't nearly as nice as something like say, oak would be, but it took a stain pretty well and for half the price of oak, I'm happy with it. Good luck.

Of course weight only matters if you build your collar into the lid so it lifts up for easy access to the bottom of the keezer. I recommend this BTW cause all kinds of nasty stuff builds up at the bottom after a few months and you'll need to clean it occasionally.
 
Of course weight only matters if you build your collar into the lid so it lifts up for easy access to the bottom of the keezer. I recommend this BTW cause all kinds of nasty stuff builds up at the bottom after a few months and you'll need to clean it occasionally.

Good call, I hadn't considered that. Thanks
 
desiccant crystals can help with the moisture/crud buildup. Can't think of the brand name right now though!..........still nothing.......


~M~
 
Damp rid. A few bucks at Lowes or HD.

I also have one of those eva dry things. Works pretty well too, and it's reusable, but expensive up front...


I also have a poplar 1x8. It's just barely enough to fit a corny on the hump. Wish I had an extra inch or so though, because my hoses do get pushed down by the lid.

I also did a double hinged lid. Very easy, and worth it...
 
I have a bucket of Damp Rid in there, too. It's not perfect, but it does keep the walls of the keezer from getting wet during the more humid summer months.

Curious how long that bucket will last. Anybody know? Sorry for going a little off topic.
 
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