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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Plastic-Mart $135 15 Gallon Conical Tank & Stand
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Old 07-30-2011, 08:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireBrew63

I bought mine already knowing it wouldn't seal without some lid modification. I don't even use an air lock on mine. 6 batches in, no infections and no off flavors or smells. Like you said, very easy to clean and sanitize. The 1/2" racking port makes filling kegs fast and easy. I quickly open and then shut the 1" drain valve to get rid of the trube after about 5 days of fermenting and then again 2-3 days before kegging. Spotted Dog made a simple screw in trube/yeast catcher for his and I will be adding that feature soon. No regrets at all making this purchase, in fact, I will be getting 2 more in the near future.
Why wouldn't the lid seal?
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Old 07-30-2011, 08:37 PM   #12
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They're not really built to be air-tight. Even after sealing around the lid base and screw holes, some air is going to escape. The lid gets a good enough seal to ferment in, but not to hold pressure.

This purchase price is great, but shipping cost is relatively high unless you live close by.

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Old 07-30-2011, 08:54 PM   #13
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Shipping Cost for this item, quantity of 1 : $45.64
To my door I think it's still a good price.

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Old 07-31-2011, 12:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by FireBrew63 View Post
Try this one out. http://www.tank-depot.com/productdet...rt=A-INFD15-19

Here's a link to Spotted Dog's build http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/15-g...-build-223291/

And here's a pic of my set up.

Can you give me a little more info about the valve and fittings you used? I'm trying to keep this cheap if I can but don't want to ruin the project trying to save a little money.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:47 PM   #15
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These things are the way to go. I bought two 35 gallon tanks with stands. You can definitly buy alot of them for the same money as a blichman of comparable size.

The plastic actually hasn't stained very brown yet from sanitization. The Lid seal Problem was an easy fix. We just cut our own red rubber gaskets between the tank and the lid. Also removing the threaded part from the tank and packing behind it with food safe silicone probably helped alot. We have had no trouble getting them to stay sealed.

On the large tanks I would recomend putting in two airlocks or high krausen will blow all your water out.

The selling point for us was how dirt cheep these tanks are. If you ever have a problem with one just throw it away and buy another.

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Old 08-02-2011, 03:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkulp89 View Post
Can you give me a little more info about the valve and fittings you used? I'm trying to keep this cheap if I can but don't want to ruin the project trying to save a little money.
2" MPT to 1" slip joint reducer, then a short piece of 1" PVC pipe to a 1" slip joint PVC ball valve. I am going to replace this assembly with threaded fittings for ease of cleaning and add a trub/yeast catcher. Got everything at Lowes and I believe it was < $10. For the racking arm I used a SS bulkhead fitting from bargainfittings.com, a 1/2" SS ball valve, a couple of short pieces of 1/2" PVC pipe with a 1/2" FPT to 1/2" slip joint adapter and a PVC 1/2" 90 degree fitting.
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Last edited by FireBrew63; 08-02-2011 at 03:48 PM. Reason: addition info.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:09 PM   #17
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Conicals are great...

But I'm jealous at the simplicity of your conical stand.
We down here have to go to more elaborate methods...

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Old 02-11-2012, 10:22 AM   #18
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I have a few of the thirty five gallon conicals and they have worked awesome for us. I would remcomend some silicone in the lid as mentioned. I also once the lid is closed wrap the seam in electrical tape to ensure I don't have trouble. The little airlocks that have water in them are a waist of time on a tank this size. Just run a line down into a bucket of water. If we put a half batch in one ferment or it ends up so full that we get a lot of foam through the bucket too. Cheap casters frog harbor freight are also a must!

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