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Old 03-28-2013, 04:05 AM   #1
swanwick
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Default Piggyback cord wiring for float switch

I am going to be doing a PID/SSR set-up for a RIMS tube with heater and thermometer. Want to also do a float switch for sparging that will turn on pump to pull already heated liquor through RIMS tube and into sparge for exact temp control.

Any reason I can't wire the float controller to a a piggyback cord and then plug the pump into the piggyback cord which plugs into the GFCI? Is there a better way? Given my lack of electrical experience, I would prefer to keep it simple.

Piggyback cord: http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-29274-LCP-20-Foot-Piggy-Back-Switch/dp/B005B92R06/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp



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Old 03-29-2013, 07:19 PM   #2
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Very excited. Just got my PID, SSR, thermoprobe, and heat sink in from Auberins.com. Still waiting for the pump and RIMS tube from brewhardware.com

For some reason I had it in my head that the PID was going to be way bigger. Tiny little thing.

Still need to order the heater for the tube, a float switch, and a piggyback cord (if someone is nice enough to respond to this post and provide advice as to whether or not that will work).

Also will need a toolbox so that I can install the electronics and the pump in a portable manner.

Then the hard part......figuring out how to wire it all up. I need to even do research about what type of wire to get.

Don't have any electrician friends so going to have to find a still competent friend who got an electrical engineering degree a while back. Chances of me getting this right is low and the stakes are too high with electrical in play.



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Old 03-29-2013, 07:32 PM   #3
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I don't know which float switch you have but even though they say they can handle high voltage it reduces their lifespan. You are better off using the float switch to turn on/off the low voltage side of your SSR.

Here is my float switch, I use it to turn on and off the 12vdc that triggers my SSR to turn my pump on and off.




Here is how I wired mine but without the temp controller (SPST is the float switch).

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Old 03-30-2013, 02:01 PM   #4
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First of all Monster, I really appreciate you taking the time to reply.

I haven't bought the float switch yet, but thinking I'll just get this one: http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Level-Switch-Poly-Float/dp/B000LDN6XE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3BQQK8WT6EDD N&coliid=I3ERELPF7YVUWK

Where is the RIMS heater on your diagram? I am planning to wire up the PID/SSR/temp controller in something like the fashion that you have described. Except I was expecting the PID to have a plug built in. I suppose I just buy a cord with a three prong plug (goes into GFCI) at one end and open wires to go into diagram as you describe at the other?

Was hoping that I could just put the pump/float combo on the piggyback (not hard wired into circuit) and have the temp/heater going through the PID/SSR.

I think I may need to really get back to basics and understand what is going on rather than trying to copy others. As soon as I veer slightly from the config, I get totally lost.

I really don't expect anyone to take the time to layout an overall recommendation for me, but just in case it is helpful here is my basic strategy

  • PID
  • 25A SSR w/heat sink
  • GFCI multiplug adapter (input will go to extension cord that plugs into an outside GFCI wall plug, output to receive pump and any other plugs)
  • chugger pump
  • 1500w ULWD heater and temp probe in RIMS tube
  • float switch attached to sparge tubes (sitting on top of mash)

When mashing: temp controller turns on heater as needed, pump runs continuously
When sparging: temp controller turns on heater as needed, float controller turns on pump as needed
one day might also use pump to go through a plate chiller

I have a tool box that I was planning to place the GFCI outlet, SSR with heat sink, PID, and pump into. RIMS tube will sit next to the box.

I can't find any wiring diagrams that cover all that, but I have to believe someone's done it. Ever seen that on HBT or elsewhere?
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:18 PM   #5
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That is the same type of float switch I am using but mine is stainless. You cannot piggyback that float switch, it is rated at 30v so you need to run low voltage through it. Your RIMS needs a temp controller with a probe in the tube to hold the temp, that is all you need because you will be running the pump the whole time.

I wish I had a better picture but as you can see on the back of my brewery I have outlets. One set of outlets are for the float switch and pump, I plug the pump in to one side that is fed with 110v and the other one is 12vdc for the float switch, nothing is hard wired in.

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Old 04-02-2013, 11:22 AM   #6
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How do you convert the power on one of the plugs? Do you split the cable from the original power source and then run one of them through an SSR?



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