parts list for electric hlt?

nathan · 01-29-2009, 06:03 PM

I'd like to get started gathering parts to electrify my keg HLT with an element.

I'd like to have a controller on it to set temps exactly.

I'd also really prefer to keep it 110 so I don't need to invest in running a 220 outlet in a garage I might be selling soon.

Who's got the goods? A parts list?

planenut · 01-29-2009, 06:36 PM

I think "the pol" has it all listed here..

You won't need the HERMS instructions but you can use the electric part of the HLT instructions.

Take a look. Page 10 post 99 I think
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/new-10-gallon-herms-pics-76773/

missing link · 01-29-2009, 07:03 PM

Are you using a pump with your HLT or gravity to send sparge water to your mash tun?

I ask because a heating element directly in the HLT has massive stratification of temps. You need to agitate the water in some way. POL uses a stir motor. I use a pump to recirc the water through a heat exchanger. By using the external heat exchanger, you can use any vessel as an HLT. I just switched from a cooler to a half barrel keg. I found that the cooler liner got to soft at 185 - 190 degrees and would start to leak. I fly sparge and require HLT temps in the 185 range to get 170 degree water to hit my mash, the silicon tubing loses a lot of temp when the flow is real slow. I need to either shorten the hose or insulate in some way.

Linc

nathan · 01-29-2009, 09:04 PM

I have a pump and a return in the hlt lid that spits and causes a slight swirl, so water from the bottom return in the top and the whole deal has a bit of a rotational flow. With direct fire heat that I use now, it seems to be within a degree or two checking at a couple spots around the HLT with my long stemmed dial thermometer.

nathan · 01-29-2009, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pol

For those wondering, the HLT element is installed this way:

The HLT is simply heated by a 1500W, 120VAC high density heating element. Mine is controlled by the Ranco, mainly because it needs to be tweaked during the mash while the HERMS is running.

I simply used 2 hole saws to get the element in there.

I used a 2" hole saw to drill through the OUTER shell of the cooler and through the foam insulation. Once the arbor hits the INNER shell, STOP DRILLING.

I then used a 1.25" hole saw to drill a smaller hole through the INNER shell only.

I used a 1" PVC sleeve and placed it over the electrical connection end of the element once the wires were connected. I then filled the cavity left inside the sleeve/around the electrical connections, with JB Weld to pot the connections.

Once this is complete, you insert the element in from the bottom, and use a SS 1" lock nut inside the HLT to tighten the element into the hole. You will use the seal that comes with the element to seal it, on the outside, not inside.

Viola... it is inserted.

Does lowe's carry this element?

I'm guessing from this I'll need:
1.25" hole saw
jb weld
element
electric cord with plug
ranco controller
thermowell (weldless for keg)

Anything else?

**wilserbrewer** · 01-30-2009, 05:18 AM

Does lowe's carry this element?

yes

The Pol · 01-30-2009, 01:37 PM

You will need the listed above... and JB Stik, and a 1" dia. PCV non conductive slip coupling.

If you are stuck at 110VAC... you need to get a 1,500W element if you can. Your HLT will be heating A LOT of water, and you would really prefer to have 240VAC going to that kettle. I have one advantage, my 1500W element is in a sealed COOLER where I have almost no temp loss at all.

That being said, the biggest friggin 120VAC element that you can get(I think 2000W) pulls too many AMPS for a simple Ranco controller. Youd need a PID and SSR for that.

Drill a 1.25" hole... follow my instructions for building the element (BLING BLING Electric Herms Conversion thread)

If you are putting this element in a kettle, a non insulated or poorly insulate vessel... I think you are going to hate it. Especially if you are using a pump to circulate the water (read more heat loss)

Wiring in a 240VAC outlet is really crazy simple... and if you have space in your box and 200A service (most newer homes do) you would be WELL served to do this. It isnt that expensive and you will find that once you go electic, you will NEED to have 240VAC to run the rig. I was scared to do it for a year or so, but then once I did, I wish I had done that 30 minute project (installing a 240VAC outlet) long ago.

nathan · 01-30-2009, 01:47 PM

Is a PID and SSR setup something I could get through on my own with advice from you?

I can use LP heat and the element to raise the temp. Do you think the 1500W element could hold temps while running the HERMS and raise a few degrees at a time for small steps? I could use the flame again for large temp raises or steps.

nathan · 01-30-2009, 01:55 PM

my issue is that I'm not very electrically inclined, and I haven't found anyone nearby who can help.
If I had someone who knew what they were doing, I wouldn't mind adding one higher voltage outlet and setting up a box for the rig with switches and outlets for the pumps, controllers for elements, etc. I just am far from being capable of tackling it on my own.

I do have a mostly empty electric box in the garage, though, so I could run a dozen high voltage outlets out of it if I knew how (and how to build the control box for the rig to take in high voltage, use it for elements, and have low voltage switched outlets for pumps, etc.)

The Pol · 01-30-2009, 02:05 PM

I can easily get you through the PID and SSR wiring... it isnt that hard and I just finished mine (and it works!)

1500W will maintain temps... steps? Errr, probably not a great way to do it. It would take a while even with a Cooler HERMS. You either need 240VAC or excellent insualtion...