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Old 01-13-2011, 12:07 AM   #11
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This is a diagram for the low pressure standing (constant) pilot setup. Here is a diagram for the electric ignition setup http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.la...37998508461298. The standing pilot setup is meant for low pressure (<.5 PSI), the electric ignition method can be used with dual valve low pressure furnace valves, or 2 solenoids for high pressure (1-30 PSI) systems where the furnace valves are not meant to be used.

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Old 01-13-2011, 04:27 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by MilwaukeeBrewGuy View Post
Is an ignition module necessary? I am assuming it is, but I don't see it in the diagram.
The diagram I posted is for a standing pilot. If you are looking for low pressure ignition go to the RIMS for Dummies thread.
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:37 PM   #13
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Here you go. I drew this up for you this morning. The VR8200A is $50 on Ebay and you can find the Q314A for $7.00. You do not need an SSR. You will need a PID controller, 24 volt transformer and RTD (better than a thermocouple). Below is how you hook it up. It is safe because if the pilot goes out the valve will shut the gas off.

Do you need an LP conversion kit...valves I'm finding on eBay are saying 3.5"WC...LP is 11"LP correct?
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:10 PM   #14
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An ignition is necessary. The drawing shown a system with a standing (always on) pilot. This has to lit manually with a flame, piezo igniter or an electronic push button igniter. We use a fully automated system that includes an intermittent igniter. An intermittent igniter begins sparking when there is a demand for heat and stops when it senses the pilot is lit. The pilot is only on during the time there is a demand for heat. The benefit is that if the flame on the burner or pilot were to go out, the ignition module will shut things down and restart the ignition sequence.
This method is more expensive but we are selling our stands and not using them ourselves which means we don't want any brewers blowing themselves up and because our competition doesn't offer it.

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Old 01-02-2012, 03:38 AM   #15
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The LP conversion for the valves is another spring and different color cap that screws down over the spring. For the Q314 pilot there is usually an LP (.10") orifice shipped in the package with the pilot burner.
Conversion is about a 10 minute job that takes a flat blade screwdriver for the valve and a pair of end wrenches for the pilot. After you start up the burner, open flame adjust valve for burner and adjust the internal regulator ( spring you replaced) on the gas valve for maximum fire level you want to run, adjusting flame after that with manual valve is much easier.
Conversion cost for a single should be around $80-$85 new from PEX supply, less if shopped from ebay. There are some alternate valves and pilots that will work for standing pilot systems, and some mix and match is possible with various manufacturers products.
If you want maximum "Bling" then for about twice that amount you can go electric spark ignition module, pilot burner, and valve.

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Old 01-02-2012, 03:34 PM   #16
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It seems like the Y8610U kit is just a few dollars more. If I am not mistaken these don't require a conversion either.

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Old 01-02-2012, 04:35 PM   #17
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The valves and pilots require conversion parts when switching from NG to propane, different pressures and fuel btu values.

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Old 01-02-2012, 07:44 PM   #18
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I was just thinking if I buy the Y8610U kit I wouldn't need to purchase any extra parts because it looks like you can convert this valve with the parts in the kit.

Honeywell Y8610U4001 Y-Pack Pilot Conversion Kit: HONE263 Climate Doctors

The VR8200A looks like it would require extra parts for the conversion to LP. Am I seeing this correctly?

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Old 01-02-2012, 08:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilwaukeeBrewGuy View Post
I was just thinking if I buy the Y8610U kit I wouldn't need to purchase any extra parts because it looks like you can convert this valve with the parts in the kit.

Honeywell Y8610U4001 Y-Pack Pilot Conversion Kit: HONE263 Climate Doctors

The VR8200A looks like it would require extra parts for the conversion to LP. Am I seeing this correctly?
A conversion kit to LP is all of $4.
If you want auto ignition I recommend a Smart Valve as opposed to a divorced control module. You'll save a lot of space and will only need to mount the transformer in an enclosure. Been there, done that...
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:12 AM   #20
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Not a fan of hot surface ignition where spills or physical damage is possible, wort spilled on ignitor will probably kill it when it is fired up. They work great in places that are protected and do not get wet, not exactly what you would expect for a brew system.

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