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Old 06-26-2013, 11:07 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Stealthcruiser View Post
If the solenoids are closed, ( temperature reached, yes?), then why not turn off the pump?
Would not work with multiple fermenters, like in my case.
Most pumps are designed for continues run and not for many start and stops.
Data sheet list start/ stops per hour.
Quote:
Your glycol reservoir will then stabilize it's temp, and shut off it's chiller, yes?
When your product needs chillin', could you not just signal the pump to start, and solenoids to open?
With a single fermenter possible.

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Old 06-26-2013, 11:11 PM   #12
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I am running multiple fermenters too so ok back to the drawing board.

Cladius sorry man still not grasping the bypass but my hunch is you do it via solenoid?

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Old 06-27-2013, 12:37 AM   #13
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Look out!
Here I go thinkin' again!

Why, another solenoid, if when your temp is reached, all chiller functions shut down?

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Old 06-27-2013, 01:01 AM   #14
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That's an easier one! I only have a 2.5 gallon bath - temp would go up very rapidly. My fermenters take a good amount of time to rise a degree though because they are well insulated.

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Old 06-27-2013, 03:24 PM   #15
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I am running multiple fermenters too so ok back to the drawing board.

Cladius sorry man still not grasping the bypass but my hunch is you do it via solenoid?
Your method is used throughout the brewing industry with more powerful pumps.
Find the right matchup for your pump.

My method is non conventional and I am a gadget guy.
The system monitors all fermentation controllers.
If no fermenter cooling is on for a fixed time a bypass valve opens the return pad to the 30 gallon tank.
The bypass valve is a motorized spring return, made by ERIE.
I had that valve in stock.
cooling-1-3.jpg   coolingall.jpg   coolingbypass.jpg  
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:31 PM   #16
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Gotcha! If I can't seem to get the check valve right than I'll add another solenoid to the mix as a bypass instead. I'm hoping maybe the 1PSI version will pull this off - all depends really if when a solenoid is open it is able to pull away all the flow before it hits the check valve successfully. If the whole path of least resistance things plays out it should

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Old 06-28-2013, 03:02 PM   #17
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So far the new 1 PSI valve seems to be doing a much better job! The only thing I'm afraid of is that the return flow may be getting bottlenecked at the manifold if the check valve isn't closing when the solenoid opens. I have to double-check this closely - if so I have to figure out some kind of solution for that.

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Old 07-02-2013, 12:13 AM   #18
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Ok so - the check valve is working. However, I've noticed something that I can't rationalize if it's a big deal or not.

One thing I was worried about with only a 1psi cracking pressure is that even with 1 solenoid open, there would still be enough pressure from the glycol chiller pump to pass the solenoid, keep the valve open and let cool glycol pass. I have been suspect this has been happening because one thing I've been noticing is that the return side of my immersion chiller has a relatively weak flow. This either means I'm not able to push glycol through fast enough, or, the return side isn't able to dump it fast enough back into the manifold because of the flow the is bypassing the check valve.

The whole setup has been working relatively well - although I did witness with the solenoid open when I tried to drop my bath temp down to 35 (fermenter is sitting at 60) the chiller was struggling. Once the solenoid closed it managed to get down just fine. This is probably just because I have such a small bath (2.25 gallons).

Any thoughts? I'm just trying to decide if I need to get a stronger check valve or not. One thing I know I need to do is move my manifold lower so gravity can carry the glycol down.

Any advice much appreciated!

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Old 07-02-2013, 10:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaudill View Post
Ok so - the check valve is working. However, I've noticed something that I can't rationalize if it's a big deal or not.

One thing I was worried about with only a 1psi cracking pressure is that even with 1 solenoid open, there would still be enough pressure from the glycol chiller pump to pass the solenoid, keep the valve open and let cool glycol pass. I have been suspect this has been happening because one thing I've been noticing is that the return side of my immersion chiller has a relatively weak flow.
I think the 1 psi check valve is a problem.
Look at the data sheet to find the ON/OFF points.

Quote:
The whole setup has been working relatively well - although I did witness with the solenoid open when I tried to drop my bath temp down to 35 (fermenter is sitting at 60) the chiller was struggling. Once the solenoid closed it managed to get down just fine. This is probably just because I have such a small bath (2.25 gallons).
I am lucky my tank holds 30 gallons without any cooling problems.

Quote:
I'm just trying to decide if I need to get a stronger check valve or not.
Most likely.

I have an idea in case the higher pressure check valve won't work.
What temp controllers are you using?

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Old 07-02-2013, 11:41 PM   #20
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I definitely confirmed the check valve on the cold side is a problem - it's allow too much flow past the solenoid.

Once this glycol pack can't keep up I'll probably do something like you did so I have a bigger bath - to this point glycol pack to fermenter has been one-to-one so it hasn't been a problem but now I can see the effect of how the fermenter heats the bath super quick.

Right now I'm using a spare A419 to test - but I am going to be building a custom Arduino solution to control two fermenters, I'd love to hear your idea!

Prost!

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