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Old 11-08-2012, 03:39 PM   #11
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Sounds like a workable plan. A little OT, but important - I'd recommend getting milk crates or a BrewHauler for those carboys. If you're lifting full carboys with those carboy handles, that's just asking for trouble.

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Old 11-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #12
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Thanks DeafSmith. I'll pick some up this weekend. And hopefully NorthernBrewer will ship my Better Bottles sometime soon. I'm sure they're backed up with the BOGO deal a few weeks ago.

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Old 11-09-2012, 02:02 PM   #13
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This is how mine is set up.

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Old 11-09-2012, 02:21 PM   #14
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If you wanted to build a false wall have you thought of building a new door? some plywood and insulation with a couple coats of paint would do and depending on the hinges you most likely could still use the existing ones. Thought i might give you something to think about

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Old 11-09-2012, 02:28 PM   #15
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I was thinking the same thing Flatcap was. Why not build a new door? Get some plywood, insulating foam, foam stripping to seal it against the fridge and connect it to the existing hinges. Drill into it however you want and you wont need to open it every time you want a brew. When you leave, put the original door back on and your landlord will be none the wiser.

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Old 11-09-2012, 09:35 PM   #16
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Why not just ask the landlord if he actually gives a crap about the ancient fridge he abandoned in the basement? I guarantee that if he's renting the place to college students, he has no expectations of ever being able to use that fridge for food again.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:58 PM   #17
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You guys have given me a lot to think about...JJL I really like your setup, might go with something similar. Gives room to store bottles, which is nice. Not sure if I want to mess around with replacing the door.

I got my kegging kit yesterday and filled up my CO2, cleaned out the corny, filled it up with some of Kal's Electric Pale Ale, and started carbing up!

2012-11-09-19.57.21.jpg

Unfortunately either I screwed up hooking it up or KegConnection missed something assembling the kit because the 5lb CO2 tank was empty this morning. I'll have to get it refilled on Monday and try again after soaping it up and checking for bubbles.

With Taprite regulators, both the black part and the red part can turn. Is it safe to assume that I should only unscrew the red knob? I accidentally messed around with the black part before I hooked it up and might not have screwed it back in all the way.

Also, when carbing up, does it matter if I have the liquid side on the keg connected?

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Old 11-13-2012, 01:49 AM   #18
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JJL, your setup got a lot of attention on the HBT Facebook page! Didn't even realize HBT had a page until tonight, but noticed that your photos were featured on Friday.

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Old 05-21-2013, 03:36 PM   #19
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I know it's been a while, but I thought I'd post an update on the kegerator. It's working great!

2013-01-27-16.31.46.jpg

There's enough room underneath the taps to put a carboy for cold crashing if I move the drip tray. I can fit maybe 20 bottles between the kegs and the drip tray otherwise. I also have perfect storage space for jars of washed yeast under the plywood floor.

My next step is to move the CO2 tank out of there and have a bulkhead going through the wall. I'm a little hesitant, as the fridge is so old I can't find any plans showing where the cooling coils are. I have tried looking for hot/cold spots with my infrared thermometer, but it's not clear where the coils are. I'll probably drill a small hole and poke a toothpick through to feel for coils. Once the CO2 is out, there will be tons of room for bottles or a carboy, even with the drop tray there.

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Old 05-21-2013, 03:47 PM   #20
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^ Ugh...be careful. This warning from a guy who HAS bricked a refrigerator before doing that. Drilled right into a refrigerant line with a 1/8" bit!!!

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