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cobolstinks 10-27-2011 09:20 PM

New System Advice/Suggestions Wanted

Looking at building a new Wallace style weldless sculpture. I have 3 kegs and are about to buy couplings and handoff to a welder to intall them. This is what i was thinking of going with for plumbing in each of the vessals.

ball valve -->falsebottom

ball valve

ball valve
whirlpool recirculation point (ball valve outside with QD, inside copper tubing flush to kettle wall)

What are people's experience / thoughts on this? I was debating things like do i need/want a sight glass on my mash tun? or do i want a recirculation point on my HLT so i could dual purpose it as a kettle, etc...

What do people recommend for sanke false bottoms?

Was going to get 3 of these: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/cast-...rner-only.html with a 30 psi reg and hook that to a lead pipe.


Chad_C 10-27-2011 10:08 PM

Check out agrisupply.com for your burners.

cobolstinks 10-28-2011 01:41 PM

thanks for the agrisupply.com tip, gonna save me $10 per burner:)

TomRep 10-28-2011 02:00 PM

I would add a sight glass to the mash tun as well. You'll be able to heat your strike water right in the tun before adding the grains.

Chad_C 10-28-2011 02:01 PM

No problem! :rockin: I am about ready to build a stand myself. Things add up quickly, so saving any amount of money is helpful!

audger 10-28-2011 02:24 PM

you can skip the thermometer in the boil kettle if you want to save a few bucks. boiling water will always be 212 degrees.

you dont really need a sight glass in the mash tun either, as you will know how much water is going into it to begin with, and the grains will not give you an accurate reading. the level will only tell you how much combined water+grains there are, in gallons- which isnt that useful to know. and you will be constantly cleaning grains out of it which is annoying.

put a temp probe in the HLT and mash tun, and a sight glass on the HLT and boil kettle.

TomRep 10-28-2011 02:36 PM

If your heating your strike water in your mash tun, you won't have the grains in there during heating. Makes measuring your strike water a lot easier, atleast it did for me.

cobolstinks 10-28-2011 02:41 PM

The reason i was thinking of skipping out on the sightglass on the mash tun was because I was thinking of measuring the strike water in the HLT and pumping it to the mash to heat in the mash.

Does this make sense? or do most avoid the extra transfer?

cobolstinks 10-28-2011 02:42 PM

The reason i was thinking to have a therm in the kettle was because I was planning on recirculating the wort through my CFC. This way I could measure the temp in the kettle and see when Im at pitching temps.

TomRep 10-28-2011 03:03 PM

I would avoid the extra transfer. You'll lose temp during the transfer so unless you were going to overheat the strike, I wouldn't mess with it. If you were looking at going with three burners anyway, just heat it right in the mash tun.

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