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Old 12-19-2011, 05:10 AM   #11
DrewBrewTheGreat
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you can use them anywhere you have MPT or FPT fitting. Or anywhere to connect two hoses together via 1/2" barbs.

| MoreBeer

Quick Disconnects / CAMLOCKS

so, the short answer is, yes.

Edit: you may want to use with a ball valve or two to shutdown flow out of the heat exchanger and to control flow out of the pump.

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Old 12-19-2011, 12:35 PM   #12
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I would deff go with the flexable tubing and quick disconnects. I got mine from Bargainfittings.com they are great!

On the hard plumbing diagram there is nothing to keep the HLT/BK from flowing to the "vessel" when you want it to flow to the pump.

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Old 12-20-2011, 04:43 PM   #13
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Would I be able to use those quick disconnects/camlocks with Stout Kettles? I think all of them have triclamp threadless fittings like this: http://conical-fermenter.com/about/a...-outlets-only/

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Old 12-20-2011, 06:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo2569 View Post
Agreed , This is what I do.
I second this vote. Quick disconnects are the way to go too. Use flexible thermoplastic tubing. Keep one female disconnect (usually more expensive than male fitting) on the section side of the pump. Then place a male diconnect on the outflow side - after a ball valve - of your MLT. Also place a female / male on the outflow side of your HLT so you can easily change the configuration when sparging: MLT draining through an unconnected male disconnect into your vessel while HLT is connected to suction side of the pump (female).
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soviet View Post
Would I be able to use those quick disconnects/camlocks with Stout Kettles? I think all of them have triclamp threadless fittings like this: Home Conical Outlets
tri clamps are a sort of quick disconnect... just not all that quick. Personally I dislike tri clamps--but they are very sanitary--but, then again, on the hot side, sanitary is achieved with heat. IMO on the hot side, tri clamps add costs significantly--without improving function (ease of use.

Others, i am sure, disagree.


you could use the tri-clamps in combination with other disconnects. That is, tri-clamps coming off the kettles, and other quick disconnects elsewhere.

Alternatively, seems to me, you could attach other quick disconnects to the tri clamp barbs via a short piece of tubing. In that case, use the quick disconnects that have the disconnect on one side and a barb (as opposed to pipe thread) on the other. The two barbed ends face each other, connected with the tubing, and the disconnect end can be use to changes line quickly.
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:50 PM   #16
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Wow, some really great feedback so far... I've read some great things about blichmann and stout and I am thinking about perhaps buying the MLT from blichmann (I heard the false bottom works wonderfully) and the kettle from Stout (they've got that great tangential inlet and cone bottom) that would be my two vessels.

I'm going to start generating a parts list in this thread, and if the helpful people of HBT will help, I'll post a new thread with the documented build. Thanks so much so far, all.

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Old 12-20-2011, 08:12 PM   #17
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I think the blichmann stuff is weldless... Someone can correct me if I am wrong...

But for that sort of money, personally, weldless gaskets and such would be a deal breaker for me. Personal preference perhaps, but welded fittings are cleaner and stronger and less hassle.

Morebeer has a few 15 gallon (welded) stainless kettles for $240. They have a spot for a thermometer and a ball valve. Easy threaded stainless screen as well. You can pump into and out of the ball valve to keep things simple. Also short and wide kettle are better for efficiency than tall and skinny ones.

Simple and rugged and plenty of capacity. Decent price. The extra bells and whistles, I think just become more things to clean (sight glasses and such).

They would likely drill and weld any extra fittings on for you as well. (for the eletcric stuff)

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Old 12-21-2011, 03:52 AM   #18
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I don't mind if it's weldless as long as it doesn't leak—I've seen enough good reviews of blichmann to know they put out a quality product. I'd go Stout on the mashtun too, but I really dig the design of the false bottom that's unique to blichmann (perforated screen design—does polarware or any other brand of pot have this or something that works just as well?).

Anyway, I gotta generate a parts list and I need help:

  • 10" Banjo Burner
  • 15 Gal Stout Brew Kettle w/ Tangential Inlet
  • 15 gal Blichmann or Stout Mashtun w/ False Bottom (undecided)
  • 3 or 4 High-Temp Silicone Hoses
  • Stainless Quick Disconnects
  • Morebeer March Pump
  • Rims Module from Stout
  • Heating element (need help finding one compatible with Stout Rims Module)
  • PID (have no idea what to look for)
  • Blichmann Plate Chiller
  • L-Shape Brew Stand - need input on how to build this, but know a welder that can help
  • inexpensive vessel for the bottom tier (large picnic cooler?)
  • temperature probe (or do they come with PID?)
  • 4 wheels for brewstand
  • blichmann autosparge
  • lots of better bottles

What am I missing? What doesn't add up? Really appreciate all the help and opinions I've heard. Thank you guys.
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:52 AM   #19
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[QUOTE=DrewBrewTheGreat;3587909]Also short and wide kettle are better for efficiency than tall and skinny ones. [QUOTE]

That dosent make sence... what kind of efficency are you talking? It will take more heat energy to keep and get a short wide kettle boiling. Also a short wide will have a higher boil off rate, which is fine if you are wanting to concentrate your wort. I believe the best kettle is just as tall as it is wide that has a decent boil off and dosent require too much energy to boil.

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Old 12-21-2011, 01:24 PM   #20
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How's my list shopping list looking?

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