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**MaxOut** · 02-24-2012, 03:45 PM

I use BG14 banjo burners on low pressure and they have more power than I need. I have the orifice sized at 75000 btu's with air wide open they burn perfect blue. That's about the max for this burner on low pressure. I use a keggle and can boil off 2 gallons an hour. Based on 75k btu per burner you will need a regulator that can supply a min of 225k btu at 11" wc. Most regulators you will find at home depot will only be rated at 60k btu at 11" wc. Go to your local propane provider to obtain the proper sized regulator or search it on- line.

**JuanMoore** · 02-24-2012, 04:11 PM

I really like the 10" BG-14 burners also. The smaller 6" BG-12, which you said you already have one of, also works well at low pressure with a properly sized orifice. Not as powerful as the 10", but still plenty powerful enough to boil 10 gal. I can't think of any situation where you'd have all 3 burners going wide open at the same time, so a 200k btu regulator should be fine.

The jet burner you have will work too, assuming the tips are the right size, but it won't be as efficient as the banjo style, and you may have issues with flame control at lower levels. If you run a search you can find threads where people have capped off many of the tips on the 20 and 32 tip jet burners to make something a little more appropriately sized. Seems that the results have been mixed, but it might be worth looking into.

Patirck · 02-24-2012, 05:19 PM

I am leaning towards NOT using the jet burners. I want to order the BG-14 but the Bayouclassicdepot and Amazon site says these are high pressure (http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/bg14_cast_iron_burner.htm) Am I missing something? Is there a different orifice I need to plug in?

I found these burners on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-BG14-Banjo-Burner/dp/B0009JXYTG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1330106928&sr=8-3 This says high pressure as well.

These all say low pressure:

http://www.amazon.com/Cajun-Cookware-Burners-Pressure-Burner/dp/B003GUAGE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330106928&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-BG12-Cast-Iron-Replacement/dp/B0009JXYT6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1330106928&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/King-Kooker-WKAF2B-Pressure-Orifice/dp/B0047O3PSO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1330106928&sr=8-10

While I have nice new 15 gallon pots that I will use for 5 or 10 gallon batches. I don't envision going bigger than these anytime soon. Will the BG 12 suffice? I certainly like the price.

As for the regulator - I found this on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Propane-Regulator-Maintain-Constant-Low-Pressure/dp/B0046V6P08 - this seems like it is what I need.

I live in Los Angeles and I can't seem to find a local propane shop that seems to know what they are doing beyond filling my empty tank.

**JuanMoore** · 02-24-2012, 06:26 PM

You just need the proper size orifice for the BG-14 to run on low pressure. The same is true for the BG-12. If you have or buy burners with high pressure orifices, you can drill them out to the proper size rather than buying new orifices.

I've not used the BG-12 myself, but a lot of others here use them with low pressure and are able to brew 10 gal batches. Probably takes a bit longer to get to a boil though. Might be perfect for a MLT burner.

And that regulator looks good to me. Like I said earlier, unless you're running all three burners wide open at the same time, 200k btu should be plenty.

Patirck · 02-24-2012, 07:03 PM

Is there a part number for the low pressure orifice for the BG14? Or is there a size drill bit to use to drill it out?

I'm going to go with two BG 14 and use my existing BG 12 for the MLT.

**crazyirishman34** · 02-24-2012, 07:11 PM

I have seen the LP orifice on brewershardware.com they run about $7.

Patirck · 02-24-2012, 08:13 PM

Thanks - I ordered the burners and the LP orifice from Brewershardware. I'm going to use the existing BG12 for my MLT and the BURN10/BG-14 for HLT and BK.

Now I hope I have not ruined the honeywell gas valves! Is there any way to check these besides seeing if they still work?

**crazyirishman34** · 02-24-2012, 08:57 PM

If they aren't venting I think that you are ok. You can get rebuild kits for most of the valves that honeywell makes. But I would think if you didn't drive the solenoid for a long time while it was stuck you should be ok.

Patirck · 03-03-2012, 03:58 AM

So I have the new burners and orifices installed. I have only had a chance to try the boil kettle so far that does not have any automation - just a needle valve. The pilot light fires up just fine but when I turn the needle valve, gas comes out in sort of a burst and then goes out, like the propane tank is empty. Any suggestions?

I also found that the orifices I ordered from brewers hardware won't fit my BG 12. I only see low pressure orifices that are 1/4" on bayouclassicdepot (these: http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/617-90-degree-male-flare-burner-brass-fitting.htm) But I don't think they are low pressure. I've looked, googled, amazoned and can't find anything that says it is for low pressure.

**crazyirishman34** · 03-03-2012, 04:40 AM

Needle valves are for HP you should just use the valve on the orifice that you go from Brewers. You need more volume then the needle valve can provide.

With the orifice you can drill them out to the correct size. If you know a plumber or a HVAC person they should have a set of thumb drills and a sizing chart. They just need to match the size of the orifice to the pressure and output btu.

Also two things that you need to keep in mind about the Honeywell valve you speck is that it also has a reg in it. They come from the factory set at 3.5" WC. I would recommend that you you adjust it so you are seeing 7" WC after the valve. Did the orifice have any info on it or included with it on or in the package? If it lists a recommended WC go with that. The second thing you need to remember about the valve is that it will come set-up from the factory for Natural gas you need to install the LP spring and cap.