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Old 09-07-2011, 08:42 PM   #31
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Very cool. As with many of the things on your awesome rig - I bet they weren't cheap
$40 total for the set! Bought second hand, but new.

You would be very surprised at the bargain shopping I've done to build my rig. Fortunately, I had a (much simpler) previous rig that I used while I took my time sourcing everything for my current rig.

Get the base stand done first and then you can build it in steps from there. Just keep your eyes open for deals and you can save a lot.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:45 PM   #32
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$40 total for the set! Bought second hand, but new.

You would be very surprised at the bargain shopping I've done to build my rig. Fortunately, I had a (much simpler) previous rig that I used while I took my time sourcing everything for my current rig.

Get the base stand done first and then you can build it in steps from there. Just keep your eyes open for deals and you can save a lot.
Good advice. Walker, a HBTer that helped me with my ebuild, knows first hand how impatient I am once a start a project haha. I usually ended up paying for it! This time I will try to heed your advice since I know this will be a winter project for me. Since I have a good idea where my ultimate brew stand is headed I want to do it right the first time through.

I would totally give you $40 for those casters! ha That is an insane deal.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:51 AM   #33
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I was sort of feeling the same way about it, powder coating is just another step i dont want to have to deal with if i can avoid it.

any of you guys care to comment on the minimum thickness for tapping screws? i was looking to put some casters on the bottom and side of my stand (so i can store it vertically.
1/8 inch thick is probably the minimum thickness that could reliably be tapped, so enough screw threads would be present to hold the screw and whatever your attaching safely.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:57 AM   #34
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I bought them new, but second hand from someone.
They look very similar to these:
I got these threaded stem casters from here:

http://www.castercity.com/eshop/10Ex.../cm3a-stem.htm

Excellent quality and they have a swivel wheel and a brake. A little pricey but very well made.

John
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:10 AM   #35
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I just used a caliper on the leg of mine and the measurements varied from .094 to right about .1". Not as thick as 1/8 inch, but more than 1/16 inch. Some of the variance is probably due to sanding and painting.

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Old 09-08-2011, 10:58 AM   #36
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I just used a caliper on the leg of mine and the measurements varied from .094 to right about .1". Not as thick as 1/8 inch, but more than 1/16 inch. Some of the variance is probably due to sanding and painting.
Awesome ! thanks for digging into the details on that for us all.



Thanks for the caster link as well. Once you start looking at casters the sky is the limit on price, and there are so many varieties you can get lost. Good to know a set that just works
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:30 AM   #37
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I looked all over when I built my rig. Ended up building a 3 tier and use one pump. I like direct drain to the MLT from the HLT. As far as the frame, I just used 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle. Cheap and way strong enough. I used casters with cast wheels because the heat from my burners. Was concerned about anything that could melt. I painted it with grill paint and have had no issues with rust or not holding up. Bought the brush on and can't imagine spending for powder coat. Good luck on the build.

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Old 09-08-2011, 12:17 PM   #38
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Dog house - I was originally going to do 3 tier, but have been debating 2 or 1 now. The main reason for the change was that I wanted to have teh option to brew in my basement (lower ceiling than garage) and in my garage. I have an electric system with direct fired tun. In my designs the HLT kept ending up at 5'9'' on paper, if I started with the BK at 14'' from the ground. That left me with very little room to fill the HLT and pumping to fill it seemed like a PITA. Anyway, now I am debating between a 2 tier and 1 tier.

Just got my new BK from AHS yesterday and they sent me a crap pot. Had a deformity in the bottom rim, dings, scratches and rust on the side that someone had tried to scuff off with an abrasive pad... Needless to say I am none too pleased. I am returning it for a new one but this just adds another delay. I really need to line the pots up together and see what things look like in reality, and not on paper before I decide to commit to a design.

I have been toying with the idea of using a heavy duty lockout slider too. Basically I would make it so the HLT was framed in directly above the MT on the rack. However the MT would be on a shelf that could be pulled out and locked out for the brew session so I could direct fire it. This would make a bit more of a compact footprint and keep the HLT gravity driven. Only issue I am debating is how much I will have to offset the weight of the extended drawer with a loaded MT on it! Or I could just commit to going eherms and be done with the fire concern. That is sounding more and more ideal.


Just out of curiosity, how much was the angle material cost-wise?

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Old 09-08-2011, 12:30 PM   #39
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A few quick comments on structural builds.

Tapped holes generally should have 2 to 2-1/2 threads engagement. This means that a 1/4-20 thread should have 2/20 or .1 inch thick minimum material to avoid thread pull out. 3/8-16 bolts require 2/16 or .125 inch thick minimum material.

Structural angle causes problems cleaning the welds on the inside of the angle. Tubing is easier to clean up.

Material thickness for US sheet plate :
8 ga. = .1644"
10 ga. = .1345"
11 ga. = .1196"
14 ga. = .0747"
16 ga. = .0598"
18 ga. = .0478"
20 ga. = .0359"

This makes 1/4-20 threads the maximum size in 11 ga. material. If you need larger diameter threads, you should drill a hole and weld on a nut, or weld on a plate and drill and tap through it.

Hope this helps with brew stand build.

Note: I haven't yet built a welded brew stand, but I have 30 years experience in manufacturing engineering of mechanical and structural parts.

Chuck

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Old 09-08-2011, 03:54 PM   #40
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That is a drag on the pot. I'm upgrading my HLT to a 25 gallon stainless pot. My local restaurant supply was the cheapest for me. Anyway, if I had my build to do over I would have built a 2 tier with my MLT higher in the center. I would love to have an all electric rig, especially if I were brewing indoors. I do love my 20 tip jet NG burners though. I can boil 22 gallons in 30-35 min. Never changing a propane tank is great. Everyone has different ideas and needs. That's what makes this place so nice. You can always find an answer here.

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