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akthor · 01-21-2013, 08:46 PM

Hmm the motor that was connected to the box wasn't 220v and all four wires were hooked up to the back of it.

the power cord comes into the box, black, white and green. The green wire goes to a mounting screw and ends there like a ground the black and white cords connect to the switches on the back of the control panel and then the 4 wires black, red, white and green come out of the box to the motor. Would pics of that help?

SudsGuy · 01-21-2013, 09:04 PM

Ok. I'm with you. The red must be used to swap polarity to the motor (via the rotation selector switch, I didn't look close enough the first time through). As long as you have a potential going to the motor though I would think it'd spin...

Can you post a picture of the backside of the control box panel?

akthor · 01-21-2013, 09:04 PM

the power cord going into the box is black, white and green. the green goes into the box and onto a mounting screw on the box, black and white go into stuff on the control board. Out of the box comes black white red and green and all four were connected to the previous motor I guess I should have paid more attention to where. Would more pics help?

mattd2 · 01-21-2013, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SudsGuy

Just to be clear - you have white, black, red and green out of the motor controller and the motor controller will power on? Your hang up is how to connect those four wires that are coming out of the control box?

The green should just be ground - it should go to a grounding lug on the motor if available. White should be neutral, black should be hot and the red should be for 220V operation (which it sounds like you don't need). Do you have a voltmeter? If so can you (carefully) use it to see what the potential (voltage) is between black-white and red-white when the control is switched on?

Just pick up on the voltage point. It has already been dicussed that the motor is wired up for "high voltage" and not "low voltage". From that would it not be expected that it is wired for 220V not 110V?

So would the it not be need to connect green - ground, white - insulated, red/black - P1/yellow. To switch the rotation should you not switch the polarity of the connections to P1/yellow, i.e. the control box needs to be rewired so replacing the white that goes to the control box switch with the red (cap/insulate the now disused white).
This is all based on the assumption the "high volatge" = 220v, reynolds care to comment?

mattd2 · 01-21-2013, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akthor

the power cord going into the box is black, white and green. the green goes into the box and onto a mounting screw on the box, black and white go into stuff on the control board. Out of the box comes black white red and green and all four were connected to the previous motor I guess I should have paid more attention to where. Would more pics help?

Is the plug for the control box that goes to the wall a 220V plug or a standard 110v plug?
If it is a 110v plug and the new motor is 220v then I would, at a guess, have to say you may not be able to reuse the contol box. At the very least you will need to confirm all the switch, lights, etc. are rated for 220v.

akthor · 01-21-2013, 09:22 PM

hopefully these help.

mattd2 · 01-21-2013, 09:23 PM

OK, sorry I might be confused but it sound like you did get it to work on 110v.

From reading the motor plate again it sounds like you want is:
Power into the control box, black passes through the control swtich for off/on control. Green goes to grounding lug.
Black (from switch), white and green exit the control box -> green to motor ground, black to yellow, white to P1.
Then the black and red wire from the motor need to go back to the control box to the rotation switch and wired so the will switch polarity depending on the switch direction (i.e. remove them from the crimped insulated connection and add another red/black wire so the wire basically travels to the control box switch and then back to the to the crimped insulated connector.)
I think we need a wiring diagram done to explain this but I don't have the ability to do one at the mo sorry.

Of corse this is just my take please can someone confirm this?

akthor · 01-21-2013, 09:30 PM

the motor can run at either voltage 110 or 220 you wire it according to the low or high voltage diagram on the motor. here's the motor:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/marathon-electric-reg-1-2hp-farm-duty-shop-motor-1-725-rpm-3241126

mattd2 · 01-21-2013, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akthor

Here is a better pic of the diagram on the motor I just don't understand:

What wire is P1 or P2 whats line 1 and line 2 what does insulate mean?

And how do these correspond to the four wires coming out of the box?

Seems like I got too many wires?

I need to wire it according to the low voltage side.

Help?

Can you also take a picture of the info plate to the left of the wiring information?
With regards to the control box I am thinking that while you may be able to reuse it, I would think you would need to start from scratch. Firstly the ground is only connected to the case, i.e. the green in the output cable is not ground! That is a huge concern.
it also seems like there is a capacitor for the old motor housed in this box (unless it is something else?)

SudsGuy · 01-21-2013, 09:34 PM

Without seeing a diagram it's hard, but I'll take another stab at it. The issue is that there are two inputs (P1, P2) to the motor, but three wires (white, red, black) coming out of the control box (not counting grounds). Is that correct akthor?

In my pee little brain you should have:
-Green ground throughout
-White through box and to the motor (may make a few stops in the control box including a stop at the power light)
-Black into the power switch, output from the power switch into the rotation selection switch as well as the power light
-Out of the rotation switch should be two wires (I'm thinking black and red) that control motor rotation

It's hard to tell your colors in your picture...Perhaps red and black should be tied together in the motor? Any feedback from anyone on that thought?

That still doesn't explain why you can't get any rotation from solely white and black (should have a voltage drop between them). If you had a voltmeter to check that it would help alot.