deadboy

Recipes 

I'm setting up a HERMs electric build. To that end I'm needing to drill out holes in some kegs. I started out using a punchout bit like this one. It stopped working about 3/4 of the way into the second hole. Then I got a 7/8" bit which hasn't had much better luck. What should I be doing differently? Do I need to lubricate the bit as I'm going or something else I'm not thinking of? I am at this point thinking I'll just step up with 2 or 3 bits from 1/2" to 7/8" but at $20-30 per bit and seemingly a very quick dulling curve I have to find a new method.

HELP!?!

__________________
On Tap: Bigfoot's Barleywine Ale, Boulevard Tank 7, California Steam
Waiting: Hard Cider, Pumpkin Ale, Black Hills Porter
Ready to brew: Autumn Amber Ale, Smooth Nut Brown Ale, Black Hills Porter
Primaries: Peppercorn Rye
Carboy:
Bottled: Beaujolais, Cabernet

TheGAC

Recipes 

Should always be using some sort of coolant or lubricant. You can even use cooking oil if you want, or you can go to HD or Lowes and buy actual cutting fluid.

Otherwise, since it's stainless, slow cutting speeds and high feeds (lots of pressure).

__________________
Blackened Brew, Brewing Co.
Keizer, Oregon


They should replace the coffee at work with a good ol' Oatmeal Stout... At least then I'd be to work on time.


"I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The great point is to bring them the real facts, and beer."-Abraham Lincoln

rossi46

Recipes 

THIS ^ and a step bit. http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Step-Drill-Bit_p_125.html

Huaco

Recipes 

The electric department of the big box stores will have conduit punches. Get the 1/2 Inch conduit punch and
Very good info here on creating good quality joints in Stainless...

Airplanedoc

Recipes 

Unless you are going weldless, just mark and have your welder cut the holes with a plasma cutter. That way the fit is what he wants

lschiavo

Recipes 

I have had the same step bits for years. I drilled many kegs with them as well as use them for work all the time. If you have a good bit like the Unibit you linked, It should not dull so soon. As mentioned above, low speed and lots of pressure are key. I use my D-handle drill that runs at about 300RPM and put all my weight into it. If you are not taking a good chip, you are just dulling the bit. You can sharpen the bits. A dremel with a grinding wheel does a nice job.

deadboy

Recipes 

Yeah, that bit I posted is exactly the one I have. I may need to re-sharpen it and start using some drill lube and/or slow WAY down.

__________________
On Tap: Bigfoot's Barleywine Ale, Boulevard Tank 7, California Steam
Waiting: Hard Cider, Pumpkin Ale, Black Hills Porter
Ready to brew: Autumn Amber Ale, Smooth Nut Brown Ale, Black Hills Porter
Primaries: Peppercorn Rye
Carboy:
Bottled: Beaujolais, Cabernet

deadboy

Recipes 

That one's not big enough. For a 1/2" weldless ball valve you need a 7/8" hole.

__________________
On Tap: Bigfoot's Barleywine Ale, Boulevard Tank 7, California Steam
Waiting: Hard Cider, Pumpkin Ale, Black Hills Porter
Ready to brew: Autumn Amber Ale, Smooth Nut Brown Ale, Black Hills Porter
Primaries: Peppercorn Rye
Carboy:
Bottled: Beaujolais, Cabernet

tre9er

Recipes 

You MUST use cutting fluid. Otherwise the steel will harden as you cut it and the bit will dull and stop.

__________________
_________________________________
Skal!
Den Faaborg Bryggeri

Gwitz

Recipes 

I've always used a 7/8" bi-metal holesaw for my keggle fittings. I've gone through 3/16" thick stainless with hole saws.