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Old 12-10-2009, 03:41 AM   #1
chefchris
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Default My simple electric setup (plans)

The elements will be heatsticks instead of drilling through the pots. I will move them around accordingly. For instance, both in the HLT when heating up my strike water. Probably use the 220v to get to a boil then sustain it with the 120v. I'll just have to build it and work out the kinks.



heat stick




What do you think, sirs?

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Old 12-10-2009, 04:41 AM   #2
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wont you need some kind of control box?

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Old 12-10-2009, 04:19 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by killian View Post
wont you need some kind of control box?
shouldn't. just plug and play.
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staygoldBREWING

Primary: RIS, Flanders Red, Berliner Weisse

On Tap: Brown Ale, American Stout, Pumpkin Porter, Pale Ale, Uncle Muscle's IPA, Rowsdower Canadian Dry Stout

Bottled: Berliner Weisse

I think you are confuisng circle k with a reach around. - Denny's Evil Concoctions
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:03 PM   #4
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You would only need a control box if you wanted to maintain a specific temp. There's some math that would calculate whether the 110v would hold the boil or not, I imagine you would want to insulate the kettles. GFI somewhere in the circuit, please.

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Old 12-10-2009, 07:43 PM   #5
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You could definitely go the way you have said in your original post. GFI's are mandatory as safety should always be first.

I would argue though that it wouldn't make much of a price difference to do it right for at least your boil kettle. You don't have to use a PID controller, SSR and heatsink to use an electric rig, but it will certainly simplify brewing and produce more consistent results.

I would at the minimum set up the heatsticks to come out of a box that you can have basic switches on. Pulling plugs in and out will be a pain in the ass and possibly even dangerous when you are talking about 220. Plus you would be dealing with cords all over. For your 220 you will need a special switch to handle the amp load. I have a dual pole 220/240 30amp switch as a safety cut off to my 5500 watt low density element. The switch is mounted between the pid/ssr and the actual element. It is great for me because simply switching a switch off is faster than dialing down my PID to 0% output-especially if you are on the verge of a boilover. Your local home improvement shop will most likely not have what you are looking for. I went to an electrical contractor warehouse that is open to the public to find what I need, something like this:

http://yhst-88735371697771.stores.ya...230ampdot.html

Expensive yes, but worth it to me for safety. Make sure you use proper wireing too when building any electric rig. For the 2000 watt elements at 120v I went with 12/3 wire. You will be drawing around 17 amps, so you 15 amp breakers won't handle the power, you will need 20 amp circuits (separate for each heat stick). Your 220 will need to have a 30 amp circut for a 5500 watt element like the one I have.

Take your time with the build, look at others rigs who have succeeded with electric brewing and don't be afraid to ask questions.

On a side note, if you do decide to go with a PID, it really doesn't cost that much more than what you are already planning-figure about 150 for PID controller, SSR, Heatsink, wireing and a suitable box. I got my stuff from Auber and couldn't have been happier. PM me or let me know if you have questions and good luck with your build.

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Old 12-11-2009, 12:15 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by chefchris View Post

What do you think, sirs?
I think it might look a bit like this IMO...hah





This used to be a three tier, I decided to lop off the top tier and add a manual pump, the one gallon pitcher on the bottom shelf moves the sparge water. I actually found it easier to have the HLT lower and just use a pitcher to transfer sparge water to the MLT, rather than waiting for gravity feed. KISS

I'm thinking of calling it the "Cheapus 10"
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Old 12-15-2009, 04:19 PM   #7
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I did a test run with water on the 2000w element last night with my pre-boil water amount (7 gallons). Went up a degree a minute till around 170F. Then it topped out at 180F and wouldn't budge. So I'll need more juice, probably just use the heat stick to assist other elements.

I don't know if a 5500w element will be too vigorous for a boil or if I should bring up the temp with both the elements and take the 5500w out and maintain with the 2000w (if it even would).

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Primary: RIS, Flanders Red, Berliner Weisse

On Tap: Brown Ale, American Stout, Pumpkin Porter, Pale Ale, Uncle Muscle's IPA, Rowsdower Canadian Dry Stout

Bottled: Berliner Weisse

I think you are confuisng circle k with a reach around. - Denny's Evil Concoctions
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:54 PM   #8
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Chefcris,
IME 2000 watts should do better than you indicated. Did you have it on a long thin cord...how big a pot?

Believe it or not, I boiled 10 gallons down to about 8 last night w/ 2000 watts in a 44 qt ss pot in around 90 minutes. Used two at 2000w each to reach boil easily, then 2000w kept a low boil w/ adequate boiloff.

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Old 12-15-2009, 09:46 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
Chefcris,
IME 2000 watts should do better than you indicated. Did you have it on a long thin cord...how big a pot?

Believe it or not, I boiled 10 gallons down to about 8 last night w/ 2000 watts in a 44 qt ss pot in around 90 minutes. Used two at 2000w each to reach boil easily, then 2000w kept a low boil w/ adequate boiloff.
The chord is 6' 12 gauge, 3-wire Rubber Electrical Cord and the pot is a big aluminum pot that does suck up heat. I'll probably switch to all SS kegs soon.
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staygoldBREWING

Primary: RIS, Flanders Red, Berliner Weisse

On Tap: Brown Ale, American Stout, Pumpkin Porter, Pale Ale, Uncle Muscle's IPA, Rowsdower Canadian Dry Stout

Bottled: Berliner Weisse

I think you are confuisng circle k with a reach around. - Denny's Evil Concoctions
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