My Sanke's Full False Bottom (thanks jaybird)

**Bobby_M** · 06-21-2008, 04:58 AM

I didn't feel like going through the effort and cost of putting the hinge on this sucker so I slotted the top of the keg like I've seen a few other people do. I used the small pressure relief holes in the top roll as reference points and let the 1/16" cutoff wheel fly.

First, a little warning. Doing this makes the keg a little oval on top. I might have to do a little rebending.

A test fit... like a glove.

The new siphon tube. The slots on the bottom allow it to continue sucking wort while sitting flat on the bottom.

I used the spring out of the sanke's valve to keep upward pressure on the perf sheet just in case the grain gets a little too heavy.

The final install. I drilled out to 1/2" for the copper but obviously had to enlarge the hole to exactly 5/8" with a dremel.

So far so good. It takes 3.5 quarts or .875 gallons to reach the false bottom. I suppose I have to add this amount to my normal strike volume?

**Jaybird** · 06-21-2008, 07:02 AM

SWEET BRO!!!

Thanks for the shout out. Now I can direct everyone to your thread...LOL
There are a thousand ways to do the connection. I like the use of the spring, great idea!

I have been able to trade with someone here on HBT 4oz of the hops you gave me for the 4oz of Amarillo hops I just used for my Honey Amarillo IPA. and I am looking forward to my next brew, EKG all the way BABY!!!
Cheers
JJ

**BakerStreetBeers** · 06-21-2008, 07:45 AM

Great work Jaybird! A testimonial from a Beer-Gearhead like Bobby M speaks volumes. If and when I build a new system I know where to go for the false bottom.

**BakerStreetBeers** · 06-21-2008, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

So far so good. It takes 3.5 quarts or .875 gallons to reach the false bottom. I suppose I have to add this amount to my normal strike volume?

In my experience, the answer is Exactly. My system is much simpler and smaller. I have about 2 quarts under the false bottom and usually just multiply the grain bill by 1.25, add a half gallon and then round to the closest half gallon. I use the grain bill X 1.25 as the mash-in volume for strike temp calculations.

BeerCanuck · 06-21-2008, 01:42 PM

Looks like that false bottom will work well in a sanke mash tun.
Were there any special requirements to dome the false bottom to fit in the bottom of the sanke? The false bottom probably helps to avoid scorching of the grains in a direct fired mash tun.

I also see you drilled the thermometer guards beside your pickup tube.
Ingenious

Cheers
BeerCanuck

**Bobby_M** · 06-21-2008, 04:03 PM

Yeah, I feel a lot better about cranking up this 80Kbtu burner when there's a buffer of 1 gallon of wort beneath the grain. I'm done mashing and sparging right now and it worked out well. It took a long recirculation to get the wort clear, but I can live with that. The 15" FB fits perfectly against the bottom, just where it starts to curve. The pickup tube places downward pressure to keep grain from sneaking around the edge.

stevecaaster · 06-21-2008, 05:11 PM

good job man, looks great!

**Bobby_M** · 06-21-2008, 07:48 PM

The verdict on the additional mash liquor (ended up at 1.33 qt/lb on this batch) is a 3-4% drop in efficiency. I guess I can live with that (87%).

**Jaybird** · 06-23-2008, 05:03 AM

Hay Bobby 87% that sounds killer!!! Now just keep it up..I build all my recipes on 85% and get 87+% most of the time
Cheers
JJ

**springer** · 06-23-2008, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

I used the spring out of the sanke's valve to keep upward pressure on the perf sheet just in case the grain gets a little too heavy.

so far so good. It takes 3.5 quarts or .875 gallons to reach the false bottom. I suppose I have to add this amount to my normal strike volume?

I may be wrong but wouldnt the amount of wort left behind be below the false bottom? Because what would be left would be when the syphon is broken when the level is below the pickup tube.